Phil Patterson writes: I used to have this problem with my 63 300, 383 2 barrel.
It would idle forever and not get hot but once I got on the highway, it got hot
untill it would finally boil over. I changed head gaskets, thermostat, and
fooled
with timing to no avail. I finally bit the bullet and got the radiator recored.
It looked like I had good flow, but apparently not. The recore job fixed the
problem. If nothing else works, I suggest gettin the radiator either rodded out
or recored by a good radiator shop. It should save a lots of frustration and
possible engine damage later.
Tom Wright wrote:
> In a message dated 5/18/99, 1:03:40 PM, SperdutoN@xxxxxxx writes:
> <<On another note, i will start working on my running warm at an idle problem
> next week.
> One person suggested first I check to see that the car is actually running
> warm.
> With the guage at 3/4 towards max, the collant temp (by sticking a
> thermometer in the radiator" was 200 degrees. So I think it's safe to assume
> that when the guage it at max, the car is overheating. The first thing I'm
> going to do is attempt to remove the thermostat.
>
> Thanks,
> Nick>>
>
> I am having an overheating problem, too. Actually, my car can idle all day
> long on a hot day and not go past the end of the "C" area. When I drive
> around town, the needle stays in the cool half of the "normal" area. BUT,
> when I get on the highway, the needle shoots straight up to the "H" area
> within 15 minutes. I have already taken out the thermostat. And I know the
> gauge is not lying because the water boils out once I get off the highway
> (never in city traffic or idling, though.)
> What could cause this? I believe my vacuum advance isn't working, but if I
> set the base timing to make up for it, it makes no difference.
> I even checked to see if I had the fan on backwards! (I don't)
> I'm stumped.
> Any ideas?
> Tom
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