RE: IML: The old oil argument

[roger crabtree <rcrabshish@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi guys,
Just to add to the story.  My father bought a new 6
popper furd in 1966.  He owned that truck until he
could no longer drive and I got it.  He sheared sheep
for a living during the time he own the vehicle and
drove many many miles on AMOCOO (Standard Oil) oil
products.  We used 10w 40 oil in the truck until I
sold it with over 500,000 miles on it in 1996.  I
still see the old furd on the road to this day.  The
engine was rebuilt once during the time I had it.  I
have used this weight of oil but not the same brand in
both my 58 furd with a "Y" block and the 55 Imperial. 
I change oil every fall before storage.  I have had no
problems with lifters or oil usage. Believe me I drive
the HE double hockey sticks out of both.  The new oils
are so much better than the old oils of the 50s. 
Filters are designed better and greases will with
stand twice the abuse to.  Just my 2-cents worth, but
I feel if you change oil on a regular time line and
maintain the cooling system.  You should never have
problems with these new oils.  In Montana we have
every temperature extreme there is.  100 plus in the
summer and -20 or more in the winter.  I have only had
one oil related incident in 50 years.  My ex wife
started a old car I had when it was -25 below.  This
would have been OK but she revved the engine and the
oil filter let go.  She then drove the car to work and
back.  I filled it with oil and a new filter.  The
engine lasted for a year before getting ride of the
car.  So something must be right with this new oil.
RC Billings, Montanaaaaaaa


Wolf,Richard T(Contractor)"
<richard.woolf@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> I agree using a single weight oil. I use SAE30W in
> all of my old cars,
> except my hot rods which I use 40 weight. Never had
> an oil related problem.
> 
> Rich Woolf
> '66 Crown
> '73 LeBaron
> '75 LeBaron
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] 
> Sent: Saturday, December 04, 2004 11:09 AM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: IML: The old oil argument
> 
> ... with Dick!  ... and some with Paul
> 
> Please see inserts
> 
> Quoting Dick Benjamin <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>:
> 
> > >>>>Straight 30 weight? I usually use 10W30 or
> 10W40, as per the manual on
> > my 
> 
> > 10W30 is very thin oil, especially for a car with
> 35 years of use on it.
> I
> > use SAE30W in all my old cars, but my choice is
> somewhat influenced by
> where
> > I live.  Our temps almost never go below 32
> degrees, and SAE30W was the
> > recommended oil for that environment, even when
> the cars were new.  A more
> > worn engine requires heavier oil to maintain
> proper oil pressure.  See
> what
> > the factory says about this - - - 
> 
> Dick, I am not certain if the SAE 30 was recommended
> for these temperatures
> or
> simply considered a possible/allowable alternative. 
> I think its the second.
> 
> The only advantage of the 30W over the 10w30 is that
> since it does not rely
> on
> the additives for its increased viscosity at higher
> temperatures, it may
> last
> longer than the 10w30.  But assuming the oil is
> still "fresh", the 10w30
> will
> do a better job protecting your engine over the
> overall driving cycle, there
> is
> no question about that.
> 
> > 
> > The following is quoted verbatim from the 1972 FSM
> (the capital letters
> are
> > theirs, not mine!):  "IMPORTANT:  If the vehicle
> is to be used for maximum
> > performance service (very high speed or very rapid
> acceleration), the
> engine
> > requires heavier than normal lubricating oil. 
> This is due to the high
> > speed, loads, and temperature of moving parts
> developed in these engines
> > during this type of operation. "FOR BEST
> PROTECTION OF THE ENGINE UNDER
> > THESE CONDITIONS, THE HEAVIEST AVAILABLE ENGINE
> OIL OF SD OR SE QUALITY
> > SHOULD BE USED THAT WILL PERMIT SATISFACTORY COLD
> STARTING. [these are
> > obsolete quality ratings, today we would say SJ or
> SI]  
> 
> Absolutely correct, that's why I use 15w50 Mobil 1
> in my 440s.  The main
> reason
> for that is the following.  These are 7.2 liter
> engines with only 5 quarts
> of
> oil (when full, 4 when low).  Most engines of half
> the displacement have the
> same amount of oil.  That means that the oil can get
> hot real fast when you
> drive it hard.  Since oil loses viscosity with
> increasing temperature, the
> higher grade is needed, so it still has acceptable
> viscosity at the elevated
> temperature (the down side is loss of gas mileage at
> low loads, and that the
> engine will not give you its full power potential
> until the oil is
> thoroughly
> warmed up).  In this respect, the multiwieght will
> do much better than the
> single weight, because its viscosity index (ability
> to maintain viscosity at
> higher temperature) is better, even if it looks
> thinner at room temperature.
> 
> The Mobil 1 or other synthetics are of course even
> better since they have
> even
> higher viscosity index and they rely less on the
> viscosity additives so the
> lubricant properties are more consistent with time
> and miles.
> 
> > 
> > SAE 30 AND SAE 40 ARE RECOMMENDED [then it goes on
> to discuss multigrade
> > oils, which are also permitted, if 20W40 or 20W50
> is used, with a special
> > "high performance" additive (STP?). 
> 
> Now, even the cheapest multiweights will be far
> superior than what was
> available
> back then.  They will easily exceed the standards of
> the best oil of the
> early
> 70's.  
> 
> > improvers are not lubricants - My understanding of
> the reason is that they
> > are simply thickening agents, so when the
> lubricant is under great stress
> > (high temp, high loads), the coefficient of
> friction is higher than with
> > straight weight oils.  I also have some antique
> heavy equipment (dozer,
> > backhoe, skiploader etc), and those manuals are
> very emphatic about it.
>  
> Dick, this is simply not true.  They absolutely are
> lubricants.  The reason
> old
> heavy equipent was "afraid" of the additives is that
> they simply did not
> trust
> their longevity.  I do not blame them.  These have
> been vastly improved in
> the
> modern times.  Now all diesels use 15w40 grade, and
> will likely go to 10w30
> in
> the future.
> 
> >  
> > 
> > In my modern cars, I don't agree with the
> recommended 5W30 oil either.  I
> > believe the car manufacturers specify very thin
> oil in an attempt to
> satisfy
> > the CAFÉ requirements - they don't give a hoot how
> long the engines last,
> as
> > long as they go beyond the warranty period. I
> switch to 10W30 after the 
> 
> That's part of the reason.  However, as long as the
> 5w30 oil is within its
> drain
> interval, it will protect the engine better than the
> 10w30 because it has
> higher
> viscosity index.  Again, the 10w30 may have higher
> viscosity at room
> temperature
> than the 5w30, but thats irrelevant.  What counts is
> its viscosity at over
> 100
> degrees C.
> > 
> > Enough of my biased opinions - suit yourselves,
> guys.
> > 
> 
> We are all biassed to some extend Dick.
> 
> Quoting RandalPark@xxxxxxx:
> 
> > I use 20W-50 in it. I also use 20w-50 in my '56
> Imperial since it is
> pretty
> > tired as well, but I am now thinking of changing
> that one to SAE40W, since
> I
> > think it is actually heavier.
> 
=== message truncated === 

=====
RC Billings, Montanaaaaaa 

http://www.imperialclub.com/temp/1955/RogerCrabtree/ 


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