RE: IML: 1968 Check Gauges light/Oil Pressure

["Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>]

I don't disagree with anything you've said. Anyone who is still driving a
V12 Zephyr engined "Ford and a half" has enough troubles without having to
argue with another old coot!   Happy push starting!

Dick 

-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of RandalPark@xxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 10:53 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: IML: 1968 Check Gauges light/Oil Pressure

Well, I'll bet most people don't really give a rats rear end about what oil
I use either, but here goes. I'll start by saying that from the time I did
my first oil change I have always bought Penzoil.

In my old Imperials I use straight SAE30W. In my modern V8 cars, that means
1980 and newer, I use 10W-30. I have one 1980 car that has a worn engine, so
I use 20W-50 in it. I also use 20w-50 in my '56 Imperial since it is pretty
tired as well, but I am now thinking of changing that one to SAE40W, since I
think it is actually heavier.

I also have an old Continental with a tired V12. My fellow LZOC members all
caution me to totally avoid ANY use of multi-viscosity oil in it, especially
with that old engine. They have insisted that I use straight SAE30W.

The '68 that I just bought has been getting 20W-40 from its previous owners,
so I planned on continuing that once I change that dang starter and am able
to drive it. The climate here isn't great for crawling around under the car
unless it is parked at least on a cement slab, and preferably in a warm
garage. That car presently is not in or on either one.

I guess that I should add to all of this that I have never blown up an
engine in an estimated total of about 2,200,000 miles of driving since 1968.
The engine in one of my parents car's siezed after I drove it in 1970, but
that was because my father had neglected a blown head gasket that put a two
quarts of anti-freeze into the crank case over a period of six months. I
also was too young and stupid to have a clue that anything was wrong,
although I don't recall any actual symptoms while driving the car. These
days I would be alerted to this by seeing the nasty concoction driping off
the dip stick while checking the oil.

Cheers!

Paul

In an email dated Sat, 4 12 2004 5:15:50 am GMT, "Dick Benjamin"
<dickb@xxxxxxxxx> writes:

>>>>>Straight 30 weight? I usually use 10W30 or 10W40, as per the manual on
>my
>
>'70. ?Why would these be considered the wrong oils? Is it just because this
>
>car is worn?
>
>
>
>
>
>I don?t have a manual from a'70, but what you say surprises me.
>
>
>
>10W30 is very thin oil, especially for a car with 35 years of use on it. ?
I
>use SAE30W in all my old cars, but my choice is somewhat influenced by
where
>I live. ?Our temps almost never go below 32 degrees, and SAE30W was the
>recommended oil for that environment, even when the cars were new. ?A more
>worn engine requires heavier oil to maintain proper oil pressure. ?See what
>the factory says about this - - -
>
>
>
>The following is quoted verbatim from the 1972 FSM (the capital letters are
>theirs, not mine!): ?"IMPORTANT: ?If the vehicle is to be used for maximum
>performance service (very high speed or very rapid acceleration), the
engine
>requires heavier than normal lubricating oil. ?This is due to the high
>speed, loads, and temperature of moving parts developed in these engines
>during this type of operation. "FOR BEST PROTECTION OF THE ENGINE UNDER
>THESE CONDITIONS, THE HEAVIEST AVAILABLE ENGINE OIL OF SD OR SE QUALITY
>SHOULD BE USED THAT WILL PERMIT SATISFACTORY COLD STARTING. [these are
>obsolete quality ratings, today we would say SJ or SI]
>
>
>
>SAE 30 AND SAE 40 ARE RECOMMENDED [then it goes on to discuss multigrade
>oils, which are also permitted, if 20W40 or 20W50 is used, with a special
>"high performance" additive (STP?).
>
>
>
>For many years, some car manufacturers, and most heavy equipment
>manufacturers advised against using multigrade oils (the viscosity index
>improvers are not lubricants - My understanding of the reason is that they
>are simply thickening agents, so when the lubricant is under great stress
>(high temp, high loads), the coefficient of friction is higher than with
>straight weight oils. ?I also have some antique heavy equipment (dozer,
>backhoe, skiploader etc), and those manuals are very emphatic about it.
>
>
>
>In my modern cars, I don?t agree with the recommended 5W30 oil either. ?I
>believe the car manufacturers specify very thin oil in an attempt to
satisfy
>the CAFÉ requirements - they don't give a hoot how long the engines last,
as
>long as they go beyond the warranty period. ?I switch to 10W30 after the
>first oil change - and when the cars get older, I'll probably go to a still
>heavier oil. I do use multigrade in the new cars, because I know they were
>designed to tolerate it better.
>
>
>
>Enough of my biased opinions - suit yourselves, guys.
>
>
>
>Dick.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Rob P
>Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 6:54 AM
>To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: RE: IML: 1968 Check Gauges light/Oil Pressure
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>
>
>
>
>>There are other possibilities, such as the wrong oil being used (you
should
>
>>be using at least either straight SAE30W or 15W40, depending on where you
>
>>live, low oil quantity, or a worn oil pump.
>
>>
>
>
>
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>
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>
>
>
>
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