RE: IML: 67 caliper & Rotor

[dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]

Quoting Dick Benjamin <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>:


> Maybe I'm just lucky, or maybe the hype about problems with the system is
> overblown - I can't say for sure.  You should ask the rest of the list about
> this - I think actual experience of the various members will give you some
> perspective about the likelihood of troubles.

Dick, the truth is somewhere in between.  The real likelihood of problems exist
if you live in a humid climate, and the car does not get driven much, or driven
too lightly.  Then, since you have 4 times the pistons of a normal car, you are
4 times more likely to develop problems.  If the car does not get driven much
and calipers need to be rebuilt, then the stainless steel re-sleeving may be a
good long term solution.  Of course, there is a positive side to all that.  The
4 piston caliper has dynamic advantages that theoritically should improve
braking under extreme conditions.  Given the performance potential of these
cars, this is a welcome positive.  A 69 road test had shown braking performance
from 60 at 169 ft as I recall, which is very good.  Of course, braking
performance on these old cars w/ no ABS is very driver-dependent performance.


> The problem with these brakes is that new rotors are just about
> unobtainable, and that Chrysler recommended they be replaced rather than
> machined - so following that set of facts leaves folks pretty well out in
> the cold if the disks are scored, as the ones on the eBay car are.
> Personally, in a situation like this, if the scoring is not too bad, I'd
> just leave the rotors alone - as long as the performance of the brakes is
> OK, and the thickness of the rotor is not below spec, the only consequence
> will be shortened pad life - so instead of driving 60,000 miles before you
> need pads again, you might only get 30,000 miles if you don't turn the

I have driven my older 68 Sedan with various states of scoring, some extreme and
thin rotors.  I have also driven it super hard at times.  I have had no
catastrophic failures.  I still think the best conversion is the Supra deal. 
The basic Chrysler design (which I think is sound) remains unchanged, and you
get rotors with higher thermal capacity that are less likely to warp under
extreme braking.  Its also relatively cheap, if in need of rotors (which I am
not right now).

D^2, 2x68



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