RE: IML: Job number "next" - hub
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RE: IML: Job number "next" - hub



We may be getting “hub” confused here, or else I am confused (which is entirely possible).  I believe the fellow with the 48 whose drum won’t come off is fighting with a front wheel. This is not a tapered axle situation; it is most likely a brake lining rusted to the drum problem.

 

The tapered axle stuck hub discussion pertains to 65 and older Imperials with tapered axles on the REAR wheels.  I don’t think the 66’s had tapered axles, by the way, but I stand ready to be corrected of course.

 

Dick Benjamin

 


From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of jsadowski
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2004 8:52 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: Job number "next" - hub

 

Jerry,

One reason for not using a lot of heat when trying to separate the hub is that you want to heat the hub only. If the heat transfers to the axle, your fighting a losing battle. Another is that too much heat can cause warping or brittleness. I recall meeting someone at a show with a 66 convertible. He had used the heat method & the axle shattered on the highway. The left rear wheel came off the car at speed & did a fair amount of damage to the car. Fortunately, nobody was hurt.

John

----- Original Message -----

From: Jerry hesch

Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2004 8:27 PM

Subject: Re: IML: Job number "next" - hub

 

...I'm not sure if these need a puller or not. I would definitely NOT use a torch to heat the hub. If you want to apply any heat, use a heat gun or even a hair dryer on high . Then try to remove.

John

 

 

John,

For the benefit of myself and the group, why would you not use a torch-the obvious concern of fire that could be minimized or concern re heat distribution causing warping?  I know there is a good reason and am one of those who does best when he knows "Why". 

Thank you

jerry hesch

 

 



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