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Well, live and learn! I’ve
worked on hundreds of cars since my first job at age 10 – more than 60
years, and I’ve never seen a hub cap that was threaded in a car built
after about 1935. This was a front hub, right? If the drum won’t come off even
after you’ve removed the bearings, I suspect the brake linings are in
contact with the drum – perhaps rusted in place (if the wheel won’t
turn at all). If you’ve backed all the way off on the
adjusters and it still won’t release, see if there is a slot for
inspecting the lining thickness on the inside of the backing plate – some
cars have these. If there is a slot that gives you a view of any portion
of a brake lining, try to insert a tool in that slot to pry the lining away
from the drum. Heat will help, but don’t use more than a
propane torch – you don’t want to warp the drum. Perhaps an
industrial type heat gun would work also. Do not use a MAPP torch or an acetylene
torch – they can get much too hot! Dick Benjamin (chalking up yet another “lesson”) From:
mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Imperial48@xxxxxxx Hi! I learned something new today
and thought I'd let you know that that hub cap IS threaded on the
'48 Crown Imperial hub. It came off fairly easily once I could see what
it was trying to get me to do! I removed the cotter key, nut, washers and
bearings but can't get the hub off. I've tapped gently all around the hub
from the back with a hammer and it isn't loosening one little bit. Some
grey/black powder has come out, obviously residue from the brake pads. |
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