From: "Eric" <gearhead@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: IML: EL Powerpacks
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2004 12:19:20 -0700
Mike,
Thanks much for posting this info. I did a successful resusitation of an EL
powerpack with new parts (until I fried a small wire that went deep into
the coil pack with an unsuitable soldering device) and can attest to the
fact that this is not that big of job. I found the parts at Fry's
Electronics, and Radio Shack also had a couple of them. At Radio Shack, the
kids there just look at you funny when you give them the part specifics.
Just ask them to direct you to their electronics components drawers. The
clerks will point you in the right direction and then will quickly
disappear to make a cell phone or RC car sale, just as described in the
text below.
There can be some variations in the manner in which the powerpack operates
depending on the resistors used, having these exact replacement parts is
convenient. Sometimes the powerpacks will get noisy or won't work when
really cold out depending on the resistor/transistor/capacitor combo.
There is a thorough discussion on this topic at
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/EL.htm
and an abbreviated description w/most the same info at
http://teamchicago.com/imperial/imp-el.htm
Eric
'63 Crown Four-Door
'72 Newport Custom sedan
From: "mike sutton" <mikanlin62@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: IML: alternative sources for EL power pack parts
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2004 22:54:00 -0700
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
As many of you probably know, the 66-67 Charger uses an electroluminescent
power pack lighting system that is electrically and functionally identical
to the ones in the Imperials that uses EL lighting, as far as the power
pack goes. Today on the Charger list a member posted some information
regarding parts suitable to repair faulty components in an EL power pack.
I know Dick Benjamin did an excellent job with a schematic of these units
and from experience I know they are not difficult to work with as long as
the transformer is good. Many people have used Radio Shack for a parts
source , but I have found that often the local store just gives me a blank
look when I want a particular component other than a RC car of cell phone.
The following excerpt from the Charger list post gives a very good supplier
of electronic parts, I have used this company for work related items for
several years now doing avionics projects. I hope it will be useful to
someone. The rest of this post is copied from the posting on the Charger
list.
Mikey
62 Crown Coupe
My source is Newark Electronics (http://newarkinone.com
<http://newarkinone.com/> )
I found a capacitor that very closely resembles the original in physical
and electrical characteristics. The original was rated for
0.05microfarad [mfd] @ 330VAC and the replacement I found is 0.047mfd @
630VAC (2000Vdc) but that's close enough. Higher voltage tolerance is
always better in a capacitor. It's Newark stock #48F3940.
It's round with axial leads and almost the exact physical dimensions.
Very pricey for a capacitor @ $2.29 each.
Our caps measure L=1.438 & d=0.532. The replacement I found is L=1.339
& d=0.591.
It's also a film cap like the originals but in a more modern casing
without the wax.
I also found two types of replacements for the transistor. One is
virtually an exact replacement in physical and electrical
characteristics but rather expensive at about $15 each. It's a true
Germanium PNP transistor like the original.
(NTE121 - Newark Stock #29C4423)
The other also has the correct physical characteristics but the
electrical characteristics are slightly different. It's still a PNP but
is a cheaper silicone transistor. It will function perfectly well and
is about $5 each. (NTE219 -Newark stock #29C8652)
I prefer the NTE121. The 219 has a lower current gain than the 121 and
some of the voltage parameters on the 121 are more robust.
The following are replacement resistors that most closely resembled the
originals in style, color, physical dimensions, and electrical
characteristics. A resistor is a resistor, so Radio Shack and other
electronics outlets (even Newark) will most likely have perfectly
acceptable replacements for less money. Just give them the resistance
and wattage and take your pick. As I said, this info is primarily for
the purists.
Even though resistors seldom go bad, at 35 year old it's very likely
they shifted values somewhat. If I have to repair a power pack, I also
replace the resistors just so I don't have to worry about it later.
For the 1.5ohm @ 5 watt resistor I found an exact replacement in
physical as well as electrical characteristics. It is a true wire-wound
resistor in a white ceramic fire proof rectangular case, just like the
originals. There are many other perfectly functional styles of fire
proof resistors but they do not have the same "look".
It is Newark stock #33C8895 and sells for $.040 each (expensive for a
resistor).
For the 1.5K ohm ½ watt resistor I found Newark stock #84N2195 @ $0.07
each. It is slightly smaller than the original but is a carbon resistor
like the original. It also has the resistance code bands like the
original. Many of the newer resistor styles do not have the bands and
are not carbon.
Finally, for the 50 ohm one watt wire-wound resistor I found Newark
stock #02F1195 @ $1.31 each. Definitely expensive for a power resistor,
but this one closely resembles the original in physical dimensions. It
does not have the exposed wires like the original but it is a true
wire-wound (with a brown ceramic coating) and it's the closest I could
find.
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