The following paragraphs are copied and pasted from an earlier post, and
its not something I would expect to last very long nor is it something I
would do for myself . Ill explain why at the end......feel free to disagree
as you see fit as its your car, your engine, your time and your money.
<<<<<<Use moderate grit sandpaper or emerycloth and sand the walls of the
cylinder so that they are approximately smooth with no major irregularities.
Get a cylinder hone, the sort with 3 long thin vertical stones and a flex
driveshaft (not the bristle-brush type) and use a medium or fine stone.. I
like fine with lots more grinding time personally.
Make certain that as you spin the hone, that you move it up and down
vigorously so that the scores that you're honing into the cylinder wall are
not horizontal and in the same plane as the top of the block or parallel to
the piston rings.
On mine, it took maybe 5 minutes of alternating between honing and using
compressed air to blow dust out before I wound up with a semi-smooth
surface. I don't know how fast a power drill spins, but if it spins at 1000
RPM, then that was maybe 3000 revolutions of honing. You'll never do that
by hand, so get a hone to do this job. Vacuum out and clean cylinder with a
rag.
Once done, I drop more marvel oil in, making sure to get all the way around
the piston, especially at the top. Wipe it all over the cylinder wall.
Crank the engine now by hand. You've already lubed the other pistons,
right? Pull the cylinder(s) that you've been working on to top-dead-center.
You'll now have a rusty piston right up on top where you can get to it.
Cover all exposed parts that like to be kept clean. Wire wheel that guy and
clean it off. Shop vac off the top. repeat for other piston tops. Wipe
clean and drizzle more lubricant into the crack where the rings are. I use
a giant syringe for that, but you can use a turkey baster or whatever.
Crank the engine over by hand and loosen it through motion. Keep the
cylinder walls wet with oil. When you get it moving freely, you're almost
home. Drop the pan if you feel it needed. Clean and reinstall. Put in
fresh oil. I like thicker stuff like 20/50. Reinstall the heads without
the valvetrain and the plugs off. Torque to spec. Now that this is all
done, you can crank the engine with the starter and spin it faster and see
what happens. You should have a free-moving engine that is ready to be
reassembled and run.
You have had a chance to have the heads off and have wire-wheeled them (I
hope), so the combustion chambers and everything else is clean, right?
Rewire/reinstall the plugs and start her up. Chances are that the thing
will run. There may be some blow-by on that cylinder if the rings are not
sealing properly, but it may improve with several miles of use, so don't be
too concerned about a little oil vapor coming out the rear of the car. Some
of that will be the oil that's in the rings and
all.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Typically honing is done with a lubricant, we use honing oil or you can use
atf and clean solvent , the point is its seldom done dry. Thats not the
issue....the main issue I see here is that a hone stone is made up of very
fine abrasive particles held together much the same way grit is held to
sandpaper. There is NO WAY you can get all those little particles out of
the ring lands and grooves with a vacuum. Especially if you did use a wet
hone method, or even if you didnt, the particles are just too fine and get
forced into the spaces in the rings and ring grooves where you definetly do
not want them.
Now, how do you keep all those little pieces of fine grit out of the other
small spaces in an engine where they will find their way, and of course get
into the oil and thru the engine and the filter wont be able to handle
these. Youre basically adding a teaspoon of valve grind compound to your
engine. Wire brushing is much the same way, the pieces are going to go
places you dont want.
Sorry to be the bad guy here, there are cases where you might be able to get
away with this, but in the long term youre gonna be in the engine again and
the next time the chances are it may be a bit more expensive.
Mikey
62 Crown Coupe
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