exhaust manifold removal

[<rls9151@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

And then, use header gaskets. They will require retightening a couple of
times as they are heated and cooled over a few weeks but, they seal much
better and can make up for a slight amount of warpage.

Have an Imperial day,
            Russell Sullivan
                        1966 Crown Coupe 2 dr ht

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark McDonald" <tomswift@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 9:35 AM
Subject: Re: IML: exhaust manifold removal


> I'm sure someone else has already touched on this, but in my opinion
> the key to changing this gasket is getting the exhaust manifold planed
> before you put it back on.  Usually they warp a bit from constant
> heating and cooling, and if you want a tight seal you need to get it
> planed.  Or you could take a straight edge, like a good steel ruler,
> and check to see how straight it is, but generally I think they require
> planing, which is something I don't think you can do yourself.  (Well,
> I can't)
>
> Mark M
>
> On Monday, December 29, 2003, at 11:55 PM, mike sutton wrote:
>
> > Fwiw, the exhaust manifold fasteners on these cars were usually held
> > on by
> > studs and nuts,  and yes the studs went into the water passages in the
> > exhaust manifolds.  On MOST of these, with the exception being some of
> > the
> > performance manifolds that had a very unique deep nut from the
> > factory, you
> > can replace the stock nut with a BRASS nut , which will eliminate the
> > problem of frozen fasteners and busted studs in the future.  The same
> > rule
> > applies to the fasteners between the manifold and exhaust pipes, it
> > may not
> > be a big deal but someone in the future will thank you for making that
> > change....maybe even you!
> >
> > Mikey
> > 62 Crown Coupe
> >
> >
> >