I took the switch out but that yielded me nothing as I can test the
electrical connections to it just as well with it in the car. I learned
something though. Taking the switch out is a snap...three of those little
tamper proof screws and off it comes. Putting it back in requires some
finnese however. You need to align both the column lock paul and the shift
lever lock paul while reinstalling the switch. This is not impossible, you
just need to be aware of the fact that it is necessary.
What I found was the three wires in the middle of the long connector have no
power to them when the car is running. I am still waiting on a diagram to
know what these wires do.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Humphries" <mjhumphri@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 1990 Imperial Electrical Issue
If I remember correctly. The switch isn't hard to get
out, but I beleive my fathers was held in with
"security torx" screws. I know he took his to the
chrysler dealer the first time, and bought the right
screwdriver the second time.
A secuirty torx will look like a traditional torx,
only on the screw driver there will be a hole in the
middle of the bit end. The screw has a stud in the
middle of the torx head that prevents a regular torx
screwdriver from working.
I'm not certain, but I expect the NewYorker and
Dynasty switch will work. My dad has a New Yorker as
well. The switches look identical. The only difference
I notice, is that the New Yorker has Quad high beams
(all four lights on) while the Imperial uses flip-flop
high beams (only two high beams on, low beam shut
off). I suspect this is just a difference in the
wiring going to the headlights. I suspect the switches
are the same.
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