If I remember correctly. The switch isn't hard to get
out, but I beleive my fathers was held in with
"security torx" screws. I know he took his to the
chrysler dealer the first time, and bought the right
screwdriver the second time.
A secuirty torx will look like a traditional torx,
only on the screw driver there will be a hole in the
middle of the bit end. The screw has a stud in the
middle of the torx head that prevents a regular torx
screwdriver from working.
I'm not certain, but I expect the NewYorker and
Dynasty switch will work. My dad has a New Yorker as
well. The switches look identical. The only difference
I notice, is that the New Yorker has Quad high beams
(all four lights on) while the Imperial uses flip-flop
high beams (only two high beams on, low beam shut
off). I suspect this is just a difference in the
wiring going to the headlights. I suspect the switches
are the same.
--- Brad Hogg <roadhogg@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Thanks Michael. I'll look into that tonight. In
> hopes of resolving this
> issue I resolved another that was caused by loose
> connections at the turn
> signal indicator assembly. The issue was that the
> high beam headlights
> would turn off if you tilted the column down too
> far. It was just a loose
> wire or two in the connector. My current issue
> might be similar in the
> ignition switch connector or indeed the switch
> itself as you suggest. Are
> the switches hard to change? I have a buddy who
> just bought a 1990 Imperial
> and apparently it has a bad switch too. I would
> assume I can get that
> switch out of any Dynasty or New Yorker.
>
> Thanks for the suggestion!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael Humphries" <mjhumphri@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, December 12, 2003 7:59 AM
> Subject: Re: IML: 1990 Imperial Electrical Issue
>
>
> I'd look closely at the ignition switch before
> chasing
> too many wires. My father's '90 has had the ignition
> switch changed twice over the last 13 years he's
> owned
> it... he had the same symtoms you're describing.
>
>
> --- Brad Hogg <roadhogg@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> > More information. The fuses that exhibit no power
> > at either side when the
> > key is at the RUN position are:
> >
> > 3
> > 4
> > 5
> > 9
> > 11
> > 17
> > 18
> >
> > I don't have my manual in the house and I don't
> have
> > a wiring diagram
> > anyway. Does anyone have a diagram? Is there a
> > common point of failure for
> > all these systems?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Brad Hogg" <roadhogg@xxxxxxx>
> > To: "EEK Forum" <eek@xxxxxxxxxx>; "Imperial
> Mailing
> > List"
> > <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2003 7:09 PM
> > Subject: IML: 1990 Imperial Electrical Issue
> >
> >
> > Today, I drove my 1990 Imperial to the store and
> > when I got back in the car
> > there were a number of electrical components that
> > did not work. I checked
> > all the fuses and there were a number of them that
> > had no power at either
> > end. I don't suspect a fuse problem as much as I
> > suspect a fusible link or
> > a connector. I checked the fuses/breakers under
> the
> > hood near the air
> > intake and they looked fine too. Anyone have
> enough
> > electrical experience
> > with these cars have any suggestions as to where
> to
> > look next?
> >
> > The things that stopped working are:
> > Power windows
> > ATC (completely dead, on the coldest day of the
> year
> > no less)
> > Air Bag light is on (because air bag system in
> dead
> > I suspect)
> > Antilock light is on (because the anitlock system
> is
> > dead...I tested that
> > out on the ice)
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
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