1960 Imperial Heater & Fan Clutch Question
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1960 Imperial Heater & Fan Clutch Question
- From: RandalPark@xxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2003 14:55:13 -0500
The fan clutch should be readily available through any parts house (at least in
the States).
In addition to checking the condition of the heater core, you should also check
the condition of the water valve that is attached to the temprature control
lever. While I have never had a heater core failure in any of my '60s
Imperials, I have replaced all of the water valves due to leakage. The valves
have been unobtainable occassionally. Also, some of the replacement valves are
not of good quality. If you replace it, save your old valve. Old valves can be
rebuilt.
If your heater isn't getting very hot inside the car, the valve may not be
opening all the way (may need a cable adjustment) or it may be plugged up. If
it is plugged up, it will probably leak when you clean it out.
If your heater core isn't leaking, do not replace it with a new one. If it is
leaking, try to have it repaired. New heater cores seem to be made very poorly
compared to old original ones. Even with regular cooling system maintenence,
the new cores tend to spring leaks after a few years.
Paul
In a message dated 11/12/2003 1:07:08 PM Eastern Standard Time, "Phil
Patterson" <hilljack7@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
>If the thermostat is operating correctly, the engine should maintain a steady
>temperature, whatever the rating for that particular thermostat is. The only
>sure way to know what temperature the thermostat is opening at is to put it in
>a boiling pot of water with a thermometer and watch.
>I had a overheating problem with my 68 coupe, which turned out to be a 160
>degree thermostat that wouldn't open till 194 degrees! The car would operate
>fine, but on stopping, it would boil over a bit excessively and was an
>irritation. Having said that , I think that maybe your heater core may be
>plugged and could even be on the verge of failure. You can try back flushing
>with a garden hose, just keep putting the hose on different fittings, changing
>the direction and working the loose stuff out. Only problem is, if the heater
>core is corroded internally, you may dislodge enough corrosion for it to start
>leaking. This is a real problem on southern cars where the need for antifreeze
>isn't as necessary, but when they are ran on water or weak antifreeze, there
>is little or no corrosion protection. Also, the fact that the windshield
>doesn't clear quickly makes me suspect you have a small heater core leak
>already, just enough to mist the inside. Antifreeze doesn't evaporate as
>quickly as water, have you noticed any sweet smell coming from the vents?
>Heater cores are a bit of a problem on our vintage machines,when I got my 68 4
>door, it had the heater hoses disconnected for this reason, I'll replace it
>when I start on my 4 door in earnest.
>Phil <><
>----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave & Tracy
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2003 12:06 PM
> Subject: IML: Radiators & cooling.
>
>
> can a Imperial suffer from being too cool by removing the air con apparatus
>at the front & having a flexilite fan fitted ?
> I have had to put this type of fan on as the clutch on the silentflite went
>south ! as a result the heaters are warm, but do not clear a damp windshield
>as they should. the blowers are fine & as are the dampers in side the unit.
>Engine & timing seem o.k. And are replacement silentflites that unobtanium
>stuff.
> Regards
> Dave .
>
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