If you plan to drive your car anywhere besides the driveway, please
replace the WHOLE brake system all at once. In one shot. I did the
entire system on my 1960 and wanted to be dead certain that I would not be
piece-mealing the system as parts failed part by part. You are betting
your life on the parts that are on the car. Want 40 year old stuff or
new stuff? Don't nickel and dime on the brakes!!!
Your car has a single master cylinder. If it or any one of the 12
wheel cylinder seals or three flex hoses quit, you just lost your entire
brake system. Imperials coast quite nicely due to the laws of
physics.
I replaced my MC with a dual unit, totally new lines and hoses. I
absolutely know that I will not be dealing with anything worse than a possible
need to bleed them once I start using them.
Get new:
- Master Cylinder (Dual if you're up to it)
- 6 Wheel Cylinders
- Brake Pads (invesitgate company that makes asbestos linings for better
stopping?)
- 3 Flex hoses - 2 to F wheels -1 to R axle
- Brake lines
Suggested:
- New wheel bearings and seals while you're in there.
- Check Drums. If car was run hard and then parked with red-hot
shoes, the shoes can transfer the heat to the drums and create "hard spots"
that are not machinable and ruin the drum. Always avoid parking the
car with hot brakes if you can!! Stock up on drums. They are
becoming rare and are specific to each corner of the car.
- hand check/tighten the trans and engine pan bolts. May point out
something that's loose and could solve a leak before you have to worry
about it.
Other items that should be replaced semi automatically when you come into
an Imperial that's new to you:
- Power Steering hoses!!!!!!
- Belts
- Radiator hoses/coolant
- Battery
- Rear Trans seal (this is important) - seal sits half submerged in car's
level resting state. Over years, the top 50% dries out. The
bottom 50% stays wet. Either wet or dry, you're OK, but.... The
transistion line between dry and wet will
fail, and that's what will get you if you use the trans on an
old seal. EVERY TIME. You won't know it till it's too
late. This is a $10, 10-20 minute part.
- Drain & replace rear end lube.
- Propellor shaft center carrier bearing support has vucanized rubber
dampener that will fail with use. Go get one now and avoid the rush
later when you're hung out to dry. Lowell has these. Others do
too.
- Propellor shaft U joints are a good idea. Not crucial, but a good
idea. Beats walking.
- Fuel injector cleaner through the first 5 tanks if you're lucky and the
system isn't gummed up. I like the Chevron Techron stuff, but may not
be available overseas.
- Change the oil/filter now and after the first 100 miles or
so.
- Change trans fluid now and check later.
- Check OIC Archives for more restart info!!
See my 1960 Epic (in my email signature) for pictures and
details on installing a dual MC and new brake components into a 1960 (57-66?)
4-drum car.
Kenyon
Wills
San Lorenzo/SF Bay Area
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