My 1973 Imperial Idler Arm is defunct. Rebuilds are $200 with no other choices for stock items that I can find. I bought a 73 NY'er idler arm after hearing (here) that it should swap out. My estimate is that it is about 1.25 to 1.5 inches shorter than what's stock. The idler arm system appears to swing through a 90 degree arc as it traverses from lock to lock. What troubles me is that with the shorter arm on one side, that as the idler arm pivots, it will not keep the idler arm parallel to the firewall as it goes through a shorter arc than the pittman arm. The linkage from the drag link to the wheel is not elastic and is not made to allow for this unequal motion. This seems to me to be a problem. One member said that he'd done this on his customer's cars without problem. Maybe I'm missing something, but this just doesn't feel right. The part number that I purchased says that it's good for 65-73 full sized chryslers. Trying to get a matching chrysler pittman arm (assuming for the moment that it will fit an imp steering spindle) is a no-go, as those are $120, the idler arm that I bought is $30, and I'm doing all of this to get out from under a $200 rebuild fee for what I already have that's bad. $50 more not to have to deal with it? I'll go stock and swallow the $50 in that scenario. The other thought that I have is to saw the chrysler arm in two and have an extension welded in. This being a steering linkage and all, I don't like that one much unless the welder can convince me that it will be as strong or stronger than the cast arm was to begin with. Your thoughts? ===== Kenyon Wills 6o LeBaron - America's Most Carefully Built Car 73 LeBaron - Long Low & Luxurious San Lorenzo/SF Bay Area __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com