Ok, by the numbers.
Disconnect the battery from the car by removing the negative ( - ) cable.
Charge the battery. Let it sit overnight or however long your experience
has told you it takes to bleed down. Connect the battery and try the
starter. If it starts fine your battery is probably ok. If the battery
bleeds down while disconnected it's shot. Autozone or most other places can
check it. New batteries are 30 odd bucks at Walmart. Don't waste your
money on expensive batteries.
Get your dad to help you and remove all the fuses from the car (under the
dash) be careful to pay attention to which ones go where. One at a time,
put a fuse in and have your dad slowly remove and touch the negative cable
to the negative terminal. If you see a SLIGHT spark (might also hear the
pop) that circuit has a current draw. Some circuits will such as the
interior lights if you have the door open while you are doing this. To
eliminate the door lights hold the pin switch in while he does the test.
Once you have found which circuit is bleeding down the battery it will be
much easier to trouble shoot. I'm betting on a trunk or glovebox light
switch sticking on.
One thing you should also do until you get this fixed is to pull the
negative cable off when you finish driving the car. It does not have to be
tightened with the wrench, just snug enough that you can still remove it by
hand. You can also get battery disconnects that allow you to quickly
disconnect the battery by throwing a switch or handle. I have them on most
my old cars and it ensures the battery will be hot when I want to start the
car.
Good luck
Kerry
----- Original Message -----
From: Peggy Sue Jones <jambawoman@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2002 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: IML: Hi everyone
> Dad has a charger and I've done that with success, but the charge
> wouldn't hold for very many hours. He checked out the alternator and said
it
> was fine. I mentioned the regulator possiblity to him, but thus far he
> hasn't done anything about that. I could see about buying one more part
for
> it and trying it before I give up buying the parts. (I had already bought
a
> starter thinking that might have been the problem - no such luck - so at
> least I have one on hand if I ever need it.)
>
>
> >From: dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >To: "mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >Subject: Re: IML: Hi everyone
> >Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 09:43:55 -0600 (CST)
> >
> >Quoting Peggy Sue Jones <jambawoman@xxxxxxxxxxx>:
> >
> > > It's been sitting for over a month with a drained battery. Dad
> > > isn't
> > > comfortable working on the electrical system, so I guess I'll have to
> > > take
> > > it in to a local shop that specializs in Chryslers and hope they don't
> > > gouge
> > > me. All I know is that Dad says it is not the starter or the
> > > alternator,
> > > but something I had read made me wonder if it might be the regulator.
> > > I'm
> > > willing to bet it is in the electrical however. How will I know if
I'm
> > >
> > > being charged too much for any given repair?
> > >
> >
> >Peggy, why don't you buy a battery charger instead and charge your
battery.
> > If
> >it starts after the battery is fully charged, then you either have a
> >charging
> >system problem (alternator or regulator) or a small short that drains
your
> >battery. It will be much cheaper this way, and the list will help you
> >trouble
> >shoot. It may be something real simple. At the end, even if you have to
> >go to
> >the shop, you will know exactly what to ask them to replace, so you will
> >save
> >money at the end.
> >D^2
> >
> >
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