You will probably have satisfactory operation right off, but you can improve
your idle smoothness a little by adjusting the two idle mixture screws, 1/4
of a turn at a time, after the engine is thoroughly warmed up and is idling
at a normal curb idle speed. Back each screw out until you just begin to
notice the idle speed dropping off (you can hear the very slight change in
tone from the engine), then run it back in about 1/4 to 1/2 half turn,
searching for the fastest smooth idle. Repeat with the other side's screw,
then double check each of them. Now you should have a very smooth idle, and
you may be able to adjust the idle speed screw now to save yourself some gas
and still have a good idle.
Was the choke working OK before? I thought we had pretty well determined
that the choke was not functioning, or else the choke pull off wasn't
working. Did you find the trouble? I hope so, because if not we are still
in the dark as to why you were having problems driving it when it was cold.
If the accelerator pump were bad, it would have affected the driving under
all temperatures, any time you were trying to begin an acceleration.
Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: <Imperial59crown@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2002 7:10 PM
Subject: IML: carburetor success!
> Thanks all for your helpful advice on removing the fuel line from my carb.
> Using the two wrench method and squeezing them together with my hand,
finally
> broke the screw fitting loose. The carburetor is now redone and cleaned up
> like new, and sitting on my kitchen counter waiting to go back into the
car.
> The floats looked good, and the good news is my choke is working, so
> hopefully replacing the accelerator pump will do the trick. Kerry P. was
> right on, the '59 Imperial uses the Carter AFB. Do I need to do anything
> after putting it back on like priming it with gas? Thanks again for the
> helpful advice! Now I just need to get the smell of gas out of my house.
> Bill '59 Crown
>
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