Dual Master Cylinder brake line routing

[William Parker <parkerw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

kenyon wills wrote:
> 
> When installing the plumbing for a dual MC on my originally
> single MC car, do I:
> 
> Run 1 line to both front wheels and 1 to the rear?
> 
> <<OR>>
> 
> Run the lines like an X with 1 line to RF/LR & 1 line to
> LF/RR wheels?
> 
> I am assuming that the first is correct.
> 
> -----
> 
> Should I get a proportioning valve if I do the front/rear
> deal?
> 
> If so, how do I determine at what point to set it? (yes,
> they probably do come with instructions, but I haven't
> gotten that far yet.)
> 
> =====
> Kenyon Wills
> 6o LeBaron - America's Most Carefully Built Car
> 73 LeBaron - Long Low & Luxurious

     I've done this swap a couple of times now.  Use an
all-drum master cylinder from the '67 model listing.  Mopar
always fed the front wheels with the rear reservoir, and the
rear wheels with the front reservoir, until going to
X-systems in the front wheel drive cars.  Run one line from
the rear master cylinder outlet to the present junction
block.  Leave the lines from the junction block to each
front wheel as they are now.  Plug the junction block outlet
to the rear axle line with a flare plug (not a pipe plug). 
Run a line from the front master cylinder outlet to the line
going to the rear axle, using a flare union to connect the
two.  You should not need a proportioning valve to stay with
all drums, I haven't had any problems at all without one.
 
Bill Parker, South Central Indiana
'62 Plymouth Max Wedge; '64 Dart Convertible (Kathi's car);
'65 Imperial; '65 Barracuda \6 (Kathi's other car); '68 Hemi
Roadrunner; '68 Barracuda Fastback 383-S; '69 Barracuda
Fastback now 360 (20 y.o. son's car); '72 Cuda 340