Actually, I was thinking of going digital for the
interior.
'course, if things are done right, there wouldn't be
any oil leak or 50/50 amps...
Here is what I am thinking of: MSD EGT & A/F sensor
and unit ($150 from Summit Racing), digiatal tranny
and coolant temp guages. Nice thing about Summit's $80
digital coolant guage- programmable so it can turn on
differnt curcuits basied on temp level.
The guages I got were for basic trouble shooting while
I get more supercharger project set up and working
(dam hard to supercharge a computerized N/A engine!).
I am considering making my own computer for controling
the car- complete with my own micro controller- temp
of a specific area gets too hot and computer turns on
something to cool things down, etc.
--- "David L. Rex" <drex@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Try a quality digital gauge made by Cyberdyne, New
> Eagle, Pennsylvania 724
> 258-8440. J C Whitney plus some speed shops sell
> them.
>
> Easy to read, accurate and blend in nice at the
> bottom, in the dash or
> instrument panel or, I have even mounted a set
> across the top of dash with
> an appropriate fabric cover (as long as you don't
> drive through the steering
> wheel!).
>
> I use mechanical gauges inside the engine
> compartment. You don't want an oil
> leak @ 60 psi on your floor & feet, nor 50/60 amps
> of current loose under
> the dash (that's why auto makers went to volt
> meters).
>
> Not only oil pressure but transmission, fuel &
> radiator pressure, you can
> use the same gauge with a four way switch (to reduce
> the number of gauges).
> Then temperature for oil, transmission, radiator,
> outside air, inside air,
> including air conditioning discharge (so when the
> freon gets low or with A/C
> off when the vent temperature gets high & you feel
> sleepy).
>
> Also fuel gauge reads in the number of gallons
> remaining.
>
> These are all in the standard 2-1/16th" diameter,
> numerals are 10 mm (a
> little more than 3/8th") high. The best is the
> 3-3/8th" diameter tachometer,
> nice to know your engine speed. Numeral are ~1"
> high. This does have
> pitfalls: 5 days after installing in my 1991 Chevy
> S-10 pickup truck in
> 1995, the truck was stolen in Kingsport, Tennessee,
> of all places. I guess
> they were after the small V6, manual transmission or
> whatever, this truck
> had 130,000 miles.
>
> There is also a speedometer & odometer, 3-3/8th",
> that you can set the
> limit, read 0 to 60 mph times, 1/4 mile times &
> calibrate with the push of a
> button.
>
> Sorry to get carried away, I just think digital
> gauges are smart,
>
> Dave, 66 year old M.E. & P.E. with a K-Car
> deritative 1993 Imperial
>
>
> Tach
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, July 29, 2002 11:29 AM
> Subject: Re: IML: one more thing!
>
>
> > John, thanks for the suggestion. This engine was
> actually rebuilt by the
> > previous owner, about 10 years ago but only 20K
> miles. Again, the reason
> of
> > the unusual oil pressure reading was that the oil
> was diluted with gas due
> to
> > the carb problems, loosing its viscosity. Also,
> the reading of the stock
> oil
> > gage needs to be taken with a grain of salt. My
> (high mileage) sedan was
> > showing very low readings at times making me
> nervous. So, I installed a
> > mechanical oil pressure gage. Well, my worries
> were not justified. The
> > pressure rises very rapidly after startup to 60
> psi and stays there till
> the
> > oil warms up. After a super heavy high speed
> drive, the oil pressure will
> stay
> > at 25-30 psi idling, and reach 55 psi at 1500 rpm.
> Again, Mobil 1 15w50
> helps,
> > especially when you drive the car hard like I do.
> Modern oils designed
> for
> > super high revving modern high performance engines
> can do well on our old
> > 440s. Again, remember, as powerful as a 440 is,
> its specific power is
> quite
> > low compared to, say a BMW 4 liter V8. That
> actually works at our favor.
> > Using high performance oils, and given how
> understressed our engines are,
> they
> > should last far longer no matter how hard they are
> pushed (so long you
> keep an
> > eye to the temperature and pressure gages!)
> > D^2
> >
> > Quoting jsadowski <jsadowski@xxxxxxx>:
> >
> > > That sounds common of a high mileage engine. I'd
> take it a bit easier if
> > > you want it to last a while.
> > > John
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: D. Dardalis
> > > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2002 11:00 AM
> > > Subject: IML: one more thing!
> > >
> > >
> > > On the prior adventure, forgot to mention.
> After I got the car
> > > driveable
> > > again, I drove around the block. I noticed
> the (stock) oil pressure
> > > gage
> > > was sitting about where it sits when the car
> is hot, even though the
> > > oil
> > > was certainly close to cold. I checked the
> oil, and the level was at
> > > least
> > > half a quart higher than where it was last
> time I checked. Also, it
> > >
> > > smelled like gasoline. Could there be a
> connection between this and
> > > the
> > > stuck carburetor float?
> > >
> > > Well, I had to toss 4.5 quarts of expensive
> Mobil 1. The Texas heat
> > > would
> > > eventually boil the gas out of the oil, but I
> had probably 20%
> > > gasoline in
> > > there!
> > >
> > > D^2
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com
> -----------------
> > > This message was sent to you by the Imperial
> Mailing List. Please
> > > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and
> your response will be
> > > shared with everyone. Private messages (and
> attachments) for the
> > > Administrators should be sent to
> webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to
> http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network