Straight out of the Mopar performance catalog "Purchaser must sign purchase
agreement stating engines are for off road vehicles only". Crate engines
will not pass california emissions.
Brian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chad Brown" <clutchfan2001@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
> Paul,
> Why not check into a Mopar Performance crate engine?
> They have 360's rated at 300 hp and 380 hp, and they
> come with warranties. I think the 300 hp version is
> around $3000, but you'd pay that or near that to get a
> quality remanufactured 318 or have yours rebuilt to
> stock specs, and you're still stuck with an anemic
> engine. The 360 will bolt right in, too. As far as
> emissions, I don't know, but I'd think a brand new
> engine from Chrysler should meet smog requirements.
> Put a decent dual exhaust on it with dual cats, that
> should do it.
>
> --- Dick Benjamin <DickB@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > You'll get a lot of advice about engine swaps for
> > these cars. I am unaware
> > of anything with double the HP that would fit and
> > would pass our friendly
> > smog specs. I too suffer with our Southern
> > California smog rules.
> >
> > Dick Benjamin
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Paul A. Feeney <paFeeney@xxxxxxxx>
> > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 2:19 PM
> > Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
> >
> >
> > > Hi Dick,
> > >
> > > I think I'll take your advise on the compression
> > check before I invest any
> > > more time/money into the car. If the motor is bad,
> > I'll probably just yank
> > > it out and replace with something a little more
> > "fun". 135HP doesn't sound
> > > too good to me. This would be such a nice highway
> > cruiser with about 250HP
> > > or more. Nobody likes to get tailgated by kids in
> > Hondas covered with
> > > stickers after all. Have you heard of anyone doing
> > an engine swap into one
> > > of these cars? Keep in mind that I'm in So.
> > California, so it will HAVE TO
> > > pass smog. (we're cool on engine swaps as long as
> > the engine is newer than
> > > the car, and 100% of the smog for the engine
> > follows into the car,
> > including
> > > diagnostics).
> > >
> > > I'll check, and probably change the oil tonight.
> > At the very least I would
> > > guess that the cylinders are getting "washed" with
> > gas at this point.
> > You're
> > > right on when you said I'm getting too much fuel.
> > That's why checking the
> > > pumps/filters hasn't been a priority for me.
> > >
> > > I'll check all the connections, take them apart,
> > clean them with
> > electronic
> > > parts cleaner, apply a little dielectric grease
> > and re-connect checking
> > > continuity on the pins. I don't mind doing this
> > type of work, as long as I
> > > only have to do it once (do it right the first
> > time).
> > >
> > > Thanks again for the info, I may check a lot of
> > this tonight and report my
> > > findings in the morning.
> > >
> > > Paul
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Dick Benjamin" <DickB@xxxxxxxxx>
> > > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 1:14 PM
> > > Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
> > >
> > >
> > > > These make great daily drivers, as they are
> > superbly comfortable and
> > quiet
> > > > on the road, and get very good mileage. What
> > they are not, though, is
> > > > performers. The are very slow off the line,
> > with the 2:20 rear end, and
> > > > 4500 pounds being pulled by a 135 HP engine.
> > Once you get them rolling,
> > > > however, they will cruise all day at 75 and give
> > you 22 MPG or better
> > > doing
> > > > it.
> > > >
> > > > You can make a good air cleaner gasket with
> > closed cell foam, as used in
> > > > weather-strip (it must be closed cell foam,
> > however, anything else will
> > > let
> > > > the air sneak in there without passing the air
> > flow sensor. This drives
> > > the
> > > > computer mad!
> > > >
> > > > The EFI is throttle body injection, with 4
> > nozzles feeding 2 cylinders
> > > each
> > > > at low flow rates, and 4 more chiming in for
> > more fuel demand. The
> > > nozzles
> > > > are controlled by fuel pressure, with the low
> > flow nozzles opening below
> > > 20
> > > > PSI and the higher flow coming on stream above
> > that. This function is
> > > > entirely controlled by pressure operated
> > mechanical plungers in the
> > > > plumbing - no electronics involved at all here.
> > The system monitors
> > RPM,
> > > > throttle position, fuel and air flow,
> > temperature of fuel, air and
> > > coolant,
> > > > time since startup, the O2 content of the
> > exhaust, fuel pressure, brake
> > > > pedal position, ignition key position and
> > perhaps the phase of the moon,
> > > and
> > > > compares this data with pre-programmed and
> > memory data to set the flow
> > of
> > > > fuel. The computer is basically an analog in -
> > analog out device, so it
> > > is
> > > > not much like our modern digital controlled
> > devices at all.
> > > >
> > > > There is no provision for on board diagnostics.
> > The dealers were
> > supplied
> > > > with a test set, which is little more than an
> > box full of switches and
> > > > meters. Some on the IML have this device, but
> > I have not bothered with
> > > > one, as I can learn quite a bit about what is
> > going on with normal test
> > > > equipment.
> > > >
> > > > Chrysler dealers sometimes have parts, more
> > often you have to run your
> > > needs
> > > > on PartsVoice.com to see who can come up with
> > what you need. You will
> > > need
> > > > part numbers, of course.
> > > >
> > > > The fuel filters are under the car near the
> > passenger's door hinge post.
> > > > They are very normal in-line filters, with good
> > availability. Take the
> > > old
> > > > ones into NAPA and match them up.
> > > >
> > > > I think your problem is more likely to be too
> > much fuel than not enough.
> > > If
> > > > you have flames coming out the breather, though,
> > you may a have a
> > cracked
> > > > piston or worse. I think it's time to do a
> > compression check! It also
> > > > would be a good idea to smell the dip stick - if
> > you smell gas, you have
> > a
> > > > bomb waiting to go off there! Drain the
> > crankcase and refill it before
> > > > doing anything else to the car.
> > > >
> > > > Dick Benjamin
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Paul A. Feeney <paFeeney@xxxxxxxx>
> > > > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2002 9:38 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: IML: 82 Imp EFI won't start/run
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Hi Dick,
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks for the great advise. I'm planning on
> > looking at the car this
> > > > weekend
> > > > > (after tuning-up my 68). If the lid gaskets
> > are bad, is this something
> > a
> > > > > dealer would still have, or should I improvise
> > with a generic seal? I
> > > > > bought this car for next to nothing ($250, it
> > sat for about 5 years)
> > and
> > > I
> > > > > don't mind putting a few bucks into it as I
> > plan to use it as a daily
> > > > driver
> > > > > (kind of). Heck if this engine doesn't work
> > out, I was thinking a
> > newer
> > > > > Magnum 360, or even a V-10 from a truck.
> > > > >
> > > > > At the parts store I ran into a little
> > confusion on fuel filters. It
> > > > listed
> > > > > two types, one seemed to be "normal" with a
> > simply
> === message truncated ===
>
>
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