Hi Kerry,
I would bet that the carb is your problem from what you described. As
you add more air it seems to run better. How long have you had the carb
on there? I can't remember where I saw it but there was a write up on
this type of problem with the thermoquad someplace. I will see if I can
find it but from what I can remember it was that the body somehow became
porous or developed a crack and let the engine pull more fuel than it
needed. If you have a spare carb, even a different type that would bolt
on, you could swap them and see what your vacuum reading did with the
other carb and if the response was better. If it proves to be the carb,
you might want to get a new phenolic body and rebuild it yourself as I
never trust store bought rebuilds because they are not done by someone
who can test them, but usually by a kid who could care less what jets are
in there or if everything is set just so or not. I have a carter carb
book that helps explain the carb. E-mail me if you would like to borrow
it and I will send it to you.
Good Luck
Allan R
On Fri, 15 Mar 2002 19:36:49 -0800 (PST) KerryPinkerton
<pinkertonk@xxxxxxxxx> writes:
> Tried carb cleaner, starting fluid, propane, curses
> and hot air. nothing makes a change. I even put a
> propane torch (not lit) directly in the primary with
> the car running and it did not change the idle???
>
> The PVC valve rattles and has a strong vacuum on it.
>
> I'm convinced it is a fuel/air thing. Either a vacuum
> leak or the carb. Wish I had a spare carb. Btw, its
> a rebuilt (store bought rebuilt) Thermoquad.
>
> Kerryp
>
> --- bandmgrinding@xxxxxxxx wrote:
> > Hi Kerry,
> > Have you tried the old spray carb cleaner around
> > the manifold to see
> > if it increases RPM ? Have you checked to see if you
> > have the right pcv
> > valve? Try blocking off the pcv and brake booster
> > lines and see if it
> > runs any better. What carb is on it? Sounds more
> > like you are running
> > rich if you give it more air and it runs better.
> > Have you checked for a
> > plugged exhaust or collapsed muffler ( not likely
> > but I've seen it
> > happen)
> > If you have a thermoquad, I've seen these have a
> > bowl problem that causes
> > this, we worked on a state troopers car years ago
> > that had this type of
> > problem. Funny thing about that one was that it ran
> > better at night than
> > during the day. Drove us crazy till we changed the
> > carb, even though we
> > had rebuilt the old one a couple of times.
> > Good Luck
> > Allan R
> >
> > On Fri, 15 Mar 2002 15:16:59 -0800 (PST)
> > KerryPinkerton
> > <pinkertonk@xxxxxxxxx> writes:
> > > Well, I'm approaching stumped. My 73 runs like
> > crap
> > > and I've messed with it til I'm about out of
> > ideas.
> > >
> > > Here are the symptoms:
> > >
> > > Timing set at 10 degrees BTDC with the Vac adv
> > > disconnected and plugged.
> > >
> > > Vac gauge shows about 17, it used to be about 20.
> > >
> > > I have adjusted on the carb and timing and made
> > little
> > > change in the vac.
> > >
> > > i have disconnected and plugged ALL vac lines with
> > NO
> > > change on the vac guage.
> > >
> > > The car runs right now as well as it's run
> > recently
> > > WITH THE BREATHER OFF. With the breather on it is
> > > very FLAT at high RPM and has a slight bog if you
> > > punch it at idle. Turning the breather lid upside
> > > down and letting more air in helps but not as much
> > as
> > > removing the breather completely.
> > >
> > > Vacumm leak you say. I've tried the starter
> > spray,
> > > propane trick and get no RPM or engine noise
> > change.
> > >
> > > Compression is 130 per cyl.
> > >
> > > Now for the interesting stuff, under some
> > conditions
> > > of timing, I can screw the idle jets all the way
> > in
> > > and the car still runs which makes me think vacuum
> > > leak. Also the car will not idle down below about
> > 600
> > > RPM even with the screw completly backed out.
> > >
> > > Plugs are about a year old but probably don't have
> > a
> > > 1000 miles on the, same with wires, rotor button,
> > and
> > > cap. Cap does not show signs of damage or wear.
> > >
> > > At this point, the only think I can think of is
> > that
> > > there is a vacuum leak around the intake manifold,
> > > probably on the bottom where I can't get to it.
> > >
> > > Before I pull it off, I'd like to hear from the
> > wisdom
> > > of the group.
> > >
> > > Oh, one piece of good news is that my 'ticking'
> > sound
> > > was a bad exhaust manifold which has now been
> > > replaced.
> > >
> > > Kerryp
> > >
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