Re: IML: Sealing Imperial Roof and Trunk lid Trim

[Keith D <kdnstjames@xxxxxxxxx>]

PU = Polyurethane: polyurethane, commonly abbreviated PU, is any polymer consisting of a chain of organic units joined by urethane links. Polyurethane polymers are formed by reacting a monomer containing at least two isocyanate functional groups with another monomer containing at least two alcohol groups in the presence of a catalyst.

Polyurethane formulations cover an extremely wide range of stiffness, hardness, and densities. These materials include:

• low density flexible foam used in upholstery and bedding,
• low density rigid foam used for thermal insulation and e.g. automobile dashboards,
• soft solid elastomers used for gel pads and print rollers, and
• hard solid plastics used as electronic instrument bezels and structural parts.

Polyurethanes are widely used in high resiliency flexible foam seating, rigid foam insulation panels, microcellular foam seals and gaskets, durable elastomeric wheels and tires, electrical potting compounds, high performance adhesives and sealants, Spandex fibres, seals, gaskets, carpet underlay, and hard plastic parts.

Polyurethane products are often called "urethanes". They should not be confused with the specific substance urethane, also known as ethyl carbamate. Polyurethanes are not produced from ethyl carbamate, nor do they contain it.

Lupe Rodriguez <lupee@xxxxxxx> wrote:

What does PU stand for?
Lupe
60 Thunderbird Hard Top
64 Imperial Crown Coupe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob van der Es"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 1:05 AM
Subject: Re: IML: Sealing Imperial Roof and Trunk lid Trim


Hi Joe,

Thanks for your contribution on this subject!
I understand the importance of using a proper sealant, since
I live in a
very wet country called the Weatherlands, ehh the
Netherlands I mean :)
I noticed that on my 60 Crown a black sealant was used , it
has rubberized
over the years or maybe it was a rubber sealant that was
used. I don't
know..
Anyway the connection between the roof trim and the roof is
waterproof,
otherwise I would have rust stains in my headliner by now.
Personally, I don't think that this is the original sealer
that the factory
has used 48 years ago..
It looks to me if someone has used a sort of window sealant,
but it does the
job.

If I have to remove the roof trim I would use a modern
sealant on a PU base,
I think silicone is too agressive! There is a kind of acid
in it (smells
like vinegar) that can cause severe rust problems. It might
be aggressive to
your paintjob too!
Those modern PU base sealants give a very strong bond (as a
matter of fact
you can use it as glue), are weatherproof and non agressive.
And it is clear
as glass!

Water condense shouldn't be too much of a problem since the
paint is still
flawless, and if the SS inserts are properly sealed I think
everything will
be safe.
Or at least I hope so :)

Robert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Strickland"
To: "Imperial Mail List"
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 5:57 PM
Subject: IML: Sealing Imperial Roof and Trunk lid Trim


> Along with the discussion of sealing Imperial stainless
> steel roof
> panels there is the issue of how the roof trim should be
> sealed when it
> is re-installed. On '62 models the standard trunk trim
> piece is a
> chrome rib that has several machine threaded studs that
> are accessed
> from the bottom side of the trunk lid. The same issue
> would apply to
> sealing the roof trim on those years that have the SS roof
> trim, or even
> the conventional models that have roof trim pieces that go
> across the
> top as in '57-59 models etc. What type of sealer was
> originally used?
> Was it 3-M automotive caulking compound? Some of the trim
> I have seen
> elsewhere on the '62 I own was a foam plastic pad (usually
> circular in
> shape) that fit between the trim and the paint surface of
> the body part
> with the fastener on it underneath side of the body part.
> I have been
> thinking about how to re-attach various trim pieces that
> have holes
> through the body sheet metal. I am leaning toward the
> possibility of
> using clear GE silicone caulk. It lasts for 20 years or
> so and remains
> flexible. 3-M caulk goes on soft, but eventually dries
> out.
>
> Paul mentions that some of the stainless steel roof panels
> had a fiber
> pad underneath them (maybe some of them vibrated in the
> wind and made a
> buzzing noise?). Others had the panels electrically spot
> welded in
> place. Silicone sealer around the edges might work well
> and possibly
> even contact cement to hold the panels against the roof
> would work too.
> It would require that a person be careful how much contact
> cement
> build-up was added. It would have to be evenly applied to
> prevent bumps
> or bulges underneath. Then there is the issue of
> corrosion. Any water
> that condenses underneath or somehow gets under the edges
> of the SS
> panels would be bound to cause rust.
>
> I don't want to rain on anyone's parade, but those are
> just some
> thoughts that came to mind.
>
> Joe
>


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