Re: IML: 1960-1966 Interior Door Handle Roll Pin vs Rivet

All,

I've run into this problem numerous times and solved it without removing the door panels. It should be a 2 person job. First person holds inner door handle in "open" position and second person lays on rear seat with feet toward offending door. With door handle in "open" position second person forcibly "kicks" area near striker pin numerous times until door is freed open. Has worked every time. I usually do it in stocking feet so as not to damage door panel. Ladies, don't try this with high heels!!!! This process frees a rusty/seized door latch that has been sitting unused for years-they tend to collect dirt and water in that area. Good luck and let me know if it works for you.

Don Savard

----- Original Message -----

From: JIM LORENZEN

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 10:47 PM

Subject: Re: IML: 1960-1966 Interior Door Handle Roll Pin vs Rivet

Hi Eric,

I don't have or know how to look up your off list e-mail address. Contact me off list at jdlpdx@xxxxxxxxxxx please.

Jim L. in OR
    '60 Crown 4dr Southampton
    '62 Crown 4dr Southampton

----- Original Message -----

From: Eric

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 11:59 AM

Subject: IML: 1960-1966 Interior Door Handle Roll Pin vs Rivet

Jim, I may have an answer for you. First, some time back I wrote the last entry listed in the repair section for door handles on our website, http://www.imperialclub.org/Repair/Body/handles.htm

When you say that the back doors won't open and that you don't want to damage the trim panels, I'm taking it that it is the interior handle that is failing to open the door. This fix is for that type of scenario.

Short story is that the roll pin likes to work it's way out of the clamp that holds the handle to the post/release rod assembly. The screw that tightens the jaw of the clamp can feel tight as can be, but a roll pin that has come half-way out will allow enough play to keep the rod from being pushed fully to release the lock lever.

The fix for this is to install a rivet in place of the roll pin. It is unlikely to fail tike the roll pin does as a rivet is held in securely. The rivets and gun are available at Home Depot and I mentioned the specific rivet size in my write-up. I have a full box of rivets, less the 6 that I've used so far, and a rivet gun and I'm up in the Portland area at least twice a month. Email me off list if you'd like to see how this works in person, I'd love to see your cars anyhow, especially your newly lit Panelescent 1960. They are the best!

It looks like I made a technical error in my write up on that link, the 1960-1966 handles are prone to this, not the 1957-1959.

Eric

Lebanon, Oregon

1964 Crown Coupe

______________________________________________________________________________

From: "JIM LORENZEN" <jdlpdx@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: IML: Door Won't Shut: 1960-1966 Door Latch Assemblies
I have the opposite problem with my '62: I can't get the back doors to open
and I don't want to destroy the trim panel to get inside the door to lube or
some how persude the latches. I've drowned the wheel as best I can by
spraying WD-40 in the space between the quarter panel and door but no luck
yet. The windows are up as well and inoperative. Any and all help will be
appreciated.

Thanks

Jim L. in OR
    '60 Crown 4dt hdtp
    '62 Crown 4dr hdtp