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Great news Rob...These cars belong on the road...on
sunny days of course!!
Tom
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 3:15 PM
Subject: IML: Imp back on the road and a
big thank you to the IML!
Hi gang,
Just a short note to thank all of you that helped
me with giving good advice with regard to the broken exhaust manifold stud of
my 60.
Dave, Joe, Chad, Paul, Benjamin, Pete and all the
other that I have forgotten to mention:)
I decided to leave the last broken stud (driver
side, close to the firewall) alone, and try my luck with securing the manifold
with 5 nuts instead of 6.
Well, everything turned out well, no leaks or
whatsoever and the car is as quiet as before.
I will also give Tom Scott a big THANK YOU, for
helping me out with his spare starter motor!
Today I had the car back on the road and it was a
pleasure as always to drive it around town in nice sunny weather
:)
Thanks guys!,
Robert
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 10:55
PM
Subject: Re: IML: Problem with exhaust
manifold studs...
Rob, sorry I didn't realize you were "OVER THERE" and not in our back
yard. The reason for thread cutting oil,( which plumbers also use to thread
iron, and galvanized pipe), it has sulfur, and other additives, to reduce
friction, and dissipate the heat from drilling, or taping. Don't use motor
oil or other spray lubes, broken drill bits, and striped taps, will
result.Wish you well, Dave.
--------------
Original message --------------
From: "Rob van der Es"
<R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Thanks again Dave,
I will find me a nice set of fresh Cobalt
drils then :)
Btw, what is the reason for only using thread
cutting oil?
Why not a little WD 40 or light engine oil
for e.g.?
I will ask the machine shop if they know what
an Easy Out is, I never heard of it before nor do I know if they are
available in the Netherlands..
Lucky enough I know for sure where to buy
Heli coils if I need them!
I will make sure to seal the studs with a
good sealer!
Thanks again,
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:27
PM
Subject: Re: IML: Problem with
exhaust manifold studs...
Rob, we've used Cobalt drill bits exclusively, with some cutting
oil as the lubricant.The studs are usually a grade 5, fairly hard, but
can be drilled, with cobalt.Medium speed, with lots of lube.(use ONLY
thread cutting oil)You will have to drill in progressive steps to remove
the stud. There's a chance you can use an "EASY-OUT" if you drill to the
max.The problem with the easy-out is,they tend to expand the the remains
of the stud/bolt, and impead the removal, and if you were to break the
easy out, then there's no hope.If you have to go over-sized on the hole,
use a HELI-COIL insert, seal the studs with Leak-Lock sealer.You can
find it at refrigeration supply houses.That about it, except for
luck.Dave
--------------
Original message --------------
From: "Rob van der Es"
<R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Thanks Dave,
I like the idea of a 90 degree
drill!
I have a dremel and can attach a 90
degree device to it, and I hope that I can reach the last
stud.
Since the studs are heated up and cooled
down so often, will that make the studs softer or harder?
Are there special drills available for
this kind of job then?
I don't know for sure if my skills are
good enough (the only way to find out is trying I am afraid..) but at
least I think that I have the patience.
Have a nice day too,
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007
6:03 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Problem with
exhaust manifold studs...
Rob, all I can say is the out-look is grim.Drilling the studs
out will take patients, and skill, with the drill.
The only way to access the back stud, would be a 90degree
drill, with a helper with a good eye to keep you in proper
alignment. If you choose to use the remaining studs to hold the
manifold in place, keep in mind the manifold uses all the studs
to help transfer the heat from the manifold to the
cylinder head. Thats why there were no manifold gaskets on the
manifolds from the factory. The results may lead to a cracked
manifold, or exhaust leaks. In any event, I don't see an easy
fix.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.
--------------
Original message --------------
From: "Rob van der Es"
<r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Hi Paul and the rest
of the IML gang,
>
> I need some expert advise with
regard to the exhaust manifold studs of my
> 1960 Imperial.
> For 10 days ago I broke the exhaust manifold flange of
the left manifold...
> I noticed a a roadbump too late and
was hitting it with too much speed,
> since the whole
exhaust system is pretty rigid the impact was given
>
directly to the cast iron manifold..
>
> With the
restult that the flange has broken..
> I found myself a
reputable cast iron welder that has done the job many
>
times before so with a little luck I will have my manifold back
early next
> week.
>
> But now for the real
problem: when taking the manifold off two studs were
> bro
ken....
> Despite of several overnight soaking sessions
with penetrating oil!
>
> The number two stud
(counting from the radiator) and the last stud are
> broken
and almost flush with the head.
> Ofcourse I can try if the
4 remaining studs and bolts will secure the
> manifold but
I simply don't like the idea.
>
> On the otherhand,
I either don't like the idea of taking the head off.
> And
at least the last stud is very difficult (or not..) accessible
with
> the head in place.
> So maybe I should aim
for the second stud to come out.
>
> Both studs are
almost flushed with the head surface (slightly below
>
actually).
> Is there a safe way to get them out?
>
Or should I try to secure the manifold with the 4 remaining nuts
and see
> what happens?
>
> If this doesn't
work out, how do I remove those broken studs then?
> And
where can I buy new studs for my engine?
>
>
Ofcourse I can try to drill out the number two studs since I think
I can
> access this one from the left front wheel area
(with the left front wheel
> removed ofcourse).
>
> But what if I screw up and the studs doesn't come out,
since these studs
> are in the cooling fluid area it is
important that I don't cause any
> leakage.
> If I
break a drill for e.g. while it is just through the center of the
> stud (if I am lucky..) and the broken part gets stuck,
cooling fluid will
> escape then!!
>
> So
should I go for the 4 studs fasting method first?
>
> Any words of whisdom??
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robert
> 1960 Imperial Crown
>
>
>
>
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