----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Problem with exhaust manifold studs...
Rob, we've used Cobalt drill bits exclusively, with some cutting oil as the lubricant.The studs are usually a grade 5, fairly hard, but can be drilled, with cobalt.Medium speed, with lots of lube.(use ONLY thread cutting oil)You will have to drill in progressive steps to remove the stud. There's a chance you can use an "EASY-OUT" if you drill to the max.The problem with the easy-out is,they tend to expand the the remains of the stud/bolt, and impead the removal, and if you were to break the easy out, then there's no hope.If you have to go over-sized on the hole, use a HELI-COIL insert, seal the studs with Leak-Lock sealer.You can find it at refrigeration supply houses.That about it, except for luck.Dave
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Rob van der Es" <R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Thanks Dave,
I like the idea of a 90 degree drill!
I have a dremel and can attach a 90 degree device to it, and I hope that I can reach the last stud.
Since the studs are heated up and cooled down so often, will that make the studs softer or harder?
Are there special drills available for this kind of job then?
I don't know for sure if my skills are good enough (the only way to find out is trying I am afraid..) but at least I think that I have the patience.
Have a nice day too,
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 6:03 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Problem with exhaust manifold studs...
Rob, all I can say is the out-look is grim.Drilling the studs out will take patients, and skill, with the drill.
The only way to access the back stud, would be a 90degree drill, with a helper with a good eye to keep you in proper alignment. If you choose to use the remaining studs to hold the manifold in place, keep in mind the manifold uses all the studs to help transfer the heat from the manifold to the cylinder head. Thats why there were no manifold gaskets on the manifolds from the factory. The results may lead to a cracked manifold, or exhaust leaks. In any event, I don't see an easy fix.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Hi Paul and the rest of the IML gang,
>
> I need some expert advise with regard to the exhaust manifold studs of my
> 1960 Imperial.
> For 10 days ago I broke the exhaust manifold flange of the left manifold...
> I noticed a a roadbump too late and was hitting it with too much speed,
> since the whole exhaust system is pretty rigid the impact was given
> directly to the cast iron manifold..
>
> With the restult that the flange has broken..
> I found myself a reputable cast iron welder that has done the job many
> times before so with a little luck I will have my manifold back early next
> week.
>
> But now for the real problem: when taking the manifold off two studs were
> bro
ken....
> Despite of several overnight soaking sessions with penetrating oil!
>
> The number two stud (counting from the radiator) and the last stud are
> broken and almost flush with the head.
> Ofcourse I can try if the 4 remaining studs and bolts will secure the
> manifold but I simply don't like the idea.
>
> On the otherhand, I either don't like the idea of taking the head off.
> And at least the last stud is very difficult (or not..) accessible with
> the head in place.
> So maybe I should aim for the second stud to come out.
>
> Both studs are almost flushed with the head surface (slightly below
> actually).
> Is there a safe way to get them out?
> Or should I try to secure the manifold with the 4 remaining nuts and see
> what happens?
>
> If this doesn't work out, how do I remove those broken studs then?
> And where can I buy new studs
for my engine?
>
> Ofcourse I can try to drill out the number two studs since I think I can
> access this one from the left front wheel area (with the left front wheel
> removed ofcourse).
>
> But what if I screw up and the studs doesn't come out, since these studs
> are in the cooling fluid area it is important that I don't cause any
> leakage.
> If I break a drill for e.g. while it is just through the center of the
> stud (if I am lucky..) and the broken part gets stuck, cooling fluid will
> escape then!!
>
> So should I go for the 4 studs fasting method first?
>
> Any words of whisdom??
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robert
> 1960 Imperial Crown
>
>
>
>
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