Thanks again Dave,
I will find me a nice set of fresh Cobalt drils
then :)
Btw, what is the reason for only using thread
cutting oil?
Why not a little WD 40 or light engine oil for
e.g.?
I will ask the machine shop if they know what an
Easy Out is, I never heard of it before nor do I know if they are available in
the Netherlands..
Lucky enough I know for sure where to buy Heli
coils if I need them!
I will make sure to seal the studs with a good
sealer!
Thanks again,
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:27
PM
Subject: Re: IML: Problem with exhaust
manifold studs...
Rob, we've used Cobalt drill bits exclusively, with some cutting oil as
the lubricant.The studs are usually a grade 5, fairly hard, but can be
drilled, with cobalt.Medium speed, with lots of lube.(use ONLY thread cutting
oil)You will have to drill in progressive steps to remove the stud. There's a
chance you can use an "EASY-OUT" if you drill to the max.The problem with the
easy-out is,they tend to expand the the remains of the stud/bolt, and impead
the removal, and if you were to break the easy out, then there's no hope.If
you have to go over-sized on the hole, use a HELI-COIL insert, seal the studs
with Leak-Lock sealer.You can find it at refrigeration supply houses.That
about it, except for luck.Dave
--------------
Original message -------------- From: "Rob van der Es"
<R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Thanks Dave,
I like the idea of a 90 degree
drill!
I have a dremel and can attach a 90 degree
device to it, and I hope that I can reach the last stud.
Since the studs are heated up and cooled down
so often, will that make the studs softer or harder?
Are there special drills available for this
kind of job then?
I don't know for sure if my skills are good
enough (the only way to find out is trying I am afraid..) but at least I
think that I have the patience.
Have a nice day too,
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 6:03
PM
Subject: Re: IML: Problem with
exhaust manifold studs...
Rob, all I can say is the out-look is grim.Drilling the studs out
will take patients, and skill, with the drill.
The only way to access the back stud, would be a 90degree
drill, with a helper with a good eye to keep you in proper alignment. If
you choose to use the remaining studs to hold the manifold in place, keep
in mind the manifold uses all the studs to help transfer the
heat from the manifold to the cylinder head. Thats why there were no
manifold gaskets on the manifolds from the factory. The results may lead
to a cracked manifold, or exhaust leaks. In any event, I don't see an easy
fix.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.
--------------
Original message -------------- From: "Rob van der Es"
<r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Hi Paul and the rest of the
IML gang, > > I need some expert advise with regard to the
exhaust manifold studs of my > 1960 Imperial. > For 10
days ago I broke the exhaust manifold flange of the left manifold...
> I noticed a a roadbump too late and was hitting it with too
much speed, > since the whole exhaust system is pretty rigid the
impact was given > directly to the cast iron manifold.. >
> With the restult that the flange has broken.. > I found
myself a reputable cast iron welder that has done the job many >
times before so with a little luck I will have my manifold back early
next > week. > > But now for the real problem: when
taking the manifold off two studs were > bro ken.... >
Despite of several overnight soaking sessions with penetrating oil!
> > The number two stud (counting from the radiator) and
the last stud are > broken and almost flush with the head.
> Ofcourse I can try if the 4 remaining studs and bolts will
secure the > manifold but I simply don't like the idea. >
> On the otherhand, I either don't like the idea of taking the
head off. > And at least the last stud is very difficult (or
not..) accessible with > the head in place. > So maybe I
should aim for the second stud to come out. > > Both studs
are almost flushed with the head surface (slightly below >
actually). > Is there a safe way to get them out? > Or
should I try to secure the manifold with the 4 remaining nuts and see
> what happens? > > If this doesn't work out, how
do I remove those broken studs then? > And where can I buy new
studs for my engine? > > Ofcourse I can try to drill out
the number two studs since I think I can > access this one from
the left front wheel area (with the left front wheel > removed
ofcourse). > > But what if I screw up and the studs
doesn't come out, since these studs > are in the cooling fluid
area it is important that I don't cause any > leakage. >
If I break a drill for e.g. while it is just through the center of the
> stud (if I am lucky..) and the broken part gets stuck, cooling
fluid will > escape then!! > > So should I go for
the 4 studs fasting method first? > > Any words of
whisdom?? > > Thanks, > > Robert >
1960 Imperial Crown > > > > >
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