Jim,I have scanned 2 exploded views from my 1972 parts manual that might be of help.
http://www.dickroyale.com/log/imperial/images/atcparts01.gif http://www.dickroyale.com/log/imperial/images/atcparts02.gif You have probably already noticed the AT2 manual on our club site: http://www.imperialclub.com/Yr/1972/72ATII/Cover.htmSince ATC was quite common, a used air door should be quite easy to obtain from one of our trusted parts guru's: Phil, Bob or Murray. Btw, getting the fan out is not as difficult as you might think. You just have to take the ps-wheel off and remove the plastic mud guard.
Cheers, Frank '72 coupe (sure brake) New Zealand----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Stacey" <jhrstacey@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 4:13 AMSubject: RE: IML: '73 Lebaron - factory installed wrong air door for AutoTemp II - need correct part
Tim, Thanks for your interest and offer to help. You raise some good points. You're right about the actuator bracket. In my original email when I referred to the "air door" I was referring to both the housing and the actuator bracket as one assembly since the bracket is riveted to the housing. However, the parts book calls for both a different bracket and different air door housing for the ATCII. As you suggested, the ATCII bracket would have a mounting location for the transfer switch. Minedoesn't. From what I can gather from the MTSC booklet, the air door housing would need to be different as well since apparently there is a cam attached to the air door itself on the ATCII version to control the transfer switch.I got the vacuum hoses out of storage and took a look at how they were configured when I took it apart. (I labeled all hose ends when I disassembled them.) There are three vacuum hoses to the air door actuator/transfer switch - black, green and orange. The orange hose was connected correctly - to the "close" side of the dooractuator. The FSM shows this to be used only in the "OFF" mode, so I assumeit would have behaved as it was supposed to. The black hose that was supposed to be connected to the transfer switch toopen the door to 100% outside air was connected directly to the "open" sideof the door actuator, so it would have caused the door to open to 100% outside air when it was supposed to, even though it did not go through the transfer switch.The green hose was the one that actually went "nowhere". It was not pluggedor capped. This is the one that was supposed to open the door to only 20% outside air. Since it was not connected, I assume the door would have stayed at 100% recirculation when 20% outside was called for. And, as you pointed out, when in this mode there should have been a hissing sound from that green hose sucking air, but it was so long ago since I drove the carthat I couldn't say whether the noise was apparent or not! Plus it is hardto say what effect this leaking vacuum line could have had on the rest ofthe system. Perhaps it compromised the vacuum in other parts of the systemcausing poor performance?I am looking forward to hearing what you find when you have a chance to look at your car. It is a happy coincidence that the glove box is out so you canhave good look at it. That should tell us exactly what components are correct and how they are arranged, mounted and connected. It might be achallenge, but perhaps you could get a photo through the glove box door thatwould show all this. Thanks again for your help. If I can be of any help looking up a part number in the '73 parts book for you or anyone else on the list - just say the word. Jim Stacey '73 4dr project -----Original Message----- From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Tim Durrer Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 5:56 PM To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: IML: '73 Lebaron - factory installed wrong air door for AutoTemp II - need correct part Hi Jim, I also have a '73 LeBaron that I am in the middle of repairing various things on. One of which is the Auto Temp II. I have ordered a replacement servo from Performance Analysis in Oakridge TN. They are expensive, but well worth the cost. If yours still has the old plastic design unit under the hood it will eventually crack and leak coolant (If it is not already cracked). When I got my car the previous owner had bypassed the unit for this reason. As to your switch issue I am a little confused. You said you remember a bundle of vacuum lines that seemed to go nowhere. Were they capped off by any chance? It would seem to me you would hear a distinctive hiss coming from under the dash the last time you drove the car if they were not. Are you sure the actuator itself does not have the bracket the switch is mounted to? It could be they just installed the wrong actuator and said the heck with switch when it would not bolt up. I don't have a parts book to verify the difference on ATC versus non ATC parts. Is the actuator connected by any chance? My car is currently at my Dad's in a different part of the state having some engine work done to it. I should be able to pick it up in a couple of weeks and I will check mine to see how it is set up. I currently have the glove box out, so I should be able to see the switch and how it mounts easily. I will let you know what I find out. Where did you get your switch from? I may need one myself! Tim Durrer 73 LeBaron Blue Sky ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
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