Jim, Sounds like you definitely got a car made very early on Monday morning! Too bad Lee Iaccoca wasn't at Chrysler in 1973! I will take a digital picture of the area in question and e-mail it to you. Where did you get your switch from? Also, if you could look up a fuel sending unit for a 73 Imperial (made 11/72)I would very much appreciate it. I want to try and find a NOS unit for my car. Thanks, Tim Durrer '73 Blue Sky --- Jim Stacey <jhrstacey@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Tim, > > Thanks for your interest and offer to help. > > You raise some good points. > > You're right about the actuator bracket. In my > original email when I > referred to the "air door" I was referring to both > the housing and the > actuator bracket as one assembly since the bracket > is riveted to the > housing. However, the parts book calls for both a > different bracket and > different air door housing for the ATCII. As you > suggested, the ATCII > bracket would have a mounting location for the > transfer switch. Mine > doesn't. From what I can gather from the MTSC > booklet, the air door housing > would need to be different as well since apparently > there is a cam attached > to the air door itself on the ATCII version to > control the transfer switch. > > > I got the vacuum hoses out of storage and took a > look at how they were > configured when I took it apart. (I labeled all > hose ends when I > disassembled them.) There are three vacuum hoses to > the air door > actuator/transfer switch - black, green and orange. > > The orange hose was connected correctly - to the > "close" side of the door > actuator. The FSM shows this to be used only in the > "OFF" mode, so I assume > it would have behaved as it was supposed to. > > The black hose that was supposed to be connected to > the transfer switch to > open the door to 100% outside air was connected > directly to the "open" side > of the door actuator, so it would have caused the > door to open to 100% > outside air when it was supposed to, even though it > did not go through the > transfer switch. > > The green hose was the one that actually went > "nowhere". It was not plugged > or capped. This is the one that was supposed to > open the door to only 20% > outside air. Since it was not connected, I assume > the door would have > stayed at 100% recirculation when 20% outside was > called for. And, as you > pointed out, when in this mode there should have > been a hissing sound from > that green hose sucking air, but it was so long ago > since I drove the car > that I couldn't say whether the noise was apparent > or not! Plus it is hard > to say what effect this leaking vacuum line could > have had on the rest of > the system. Perhaps it compromised the vacuum in > other parts of the system > causing poor performance? > > I am looking forward to hearing what you find when > you have a chance to look > at your car. It is a happy coincidence that the > glove box is out so you can > have good look at it. That should tell us exactly > what components are > correct and how they are arranged, mounted and > connected. It might be a > challenge, but perhaps you could get a photo through > the glove box door that > would show all this. > > Thanks again for your help. If I can be of any help > looking up a part > number in the '73 parts book for you or anyone else > on the list - just say > the word. > > Jim Stacey > '73 4dr project > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On > Behalf Of Tim Durrer > Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 5:56 PM > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Subject: Re: IML: '73 Lebaron - factory installed > wrong air door for > AutoTemp II - need correct part > > Hi Jim, > > I also have a '73 LeBaron that I am in the middle of > repairing various things on. One of which is the > Auto > Temp II. I have ordered a replacement servo from > Performance Analysis in Oakridge TN. They are > expensive, but well worth the cost. If yours still > has > the old plastic design unit under the hood it will > eventually crack and leak coolant (If it is not > already cracked). When I got my car the previous > owner > had bypassed the unit for this reason. > > As to your switch issue I am a little confused. You > said you remember a bundle of vacuum lines that > seemed > to go nowhere. Were they capped off by any chance? > It > would seem to me you would hear a distinctive hiss > coming from under the dash the last time you drove > the > car if they were not. Are you sure the actuator > itself > does not have the bracket the switch is mounted to? > It > could be they just installed the wrong actuator and > said the heck with switch when it would not bolt up. > > I don't have a parts book to verify the difference > on > ATC versus non ATC parts. Is the actuator connected > by > any chance? > > My car is currently at my Dad's in a different part > of > the state having some engine work done to it. I > should > be able to pick it up in a couple of weeks and I > will > check mine to see how it is set up. I currently have > the glove box out, so I should be able to see the > switch and how it mounts easily. I will let you know > what I find out. Where did you get your switch from? > I > may need one myself! > > Tim Durrer > 73 LeBaron Blue Sky > > > > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com > ----------------- > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing > List. Please > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your > response will be > shared with everyone. Private messages (and > attachments) for the > Administrators should be sent to > webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to > http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. 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