As I said, I think I'm barking up the wrong tree. I
did this test below once with my original ballast, and once with my NEW ballast
and got the same results. To be a little clearer, I got at least 10volts
at IDLE, and no more that 12 volts at 2000rpm. I've isolated the wiring
from the car with these results(meaning I used jumper leads and NONE of the cars
wiring). My conclusion is is that this is NORMAL although I thought at
IDLE it should be 6-8 volts. And now poster Michael Mann says this sounds normal
too.
An easy test for you guys with a late 60's
Imperial. Start your car and put a volt meter on the positive side of the
coil. Tell me what it reads at idle and then at higher rpm.
I starting tothink I've missed something to do with
the primary fuel circuit in my carb. The car runs the same (crappy) as it did
before I rebuilt the carb. I will now check fuel pump pressure and then pull the
carb and check if I missed something.
If you scroll down on this page you will see my
post of what I've done so far.
I really appreciate all your guys help,
Thx!
Chris
67 Imperial Convertible (what a way to spend 2
weeks off!)
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 9:27
PM
Subject: Re: Fw: IML: Carter AFB running
Question
Thx Fredrick,
I just did this test and here are the
results. I disconnected both leads to the ballast and the postitive lead
to the coil. I then ran a jumper from battery +12v to one side of
the ballast. I then hooked the other end of the ballast to the positive of the
coil essentioally completlely bypassing all of the coil/ballast
circuit.
I tried this with the original ballast and a then
new one. Guess what? I get the same reading at idle, 10-11 volts and 12v at
higher RPM at the COIL. This must be normal and I'm barking up the wrong
tree.
I'm going back to a possible fuel problem.
I'd appreciate any thoughts.
Chris 67 Imperial Convertible
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 9:00
PM
Subject: Re: Fw: IML: Carter AFB
running Question
The job of the ballast resistor is to vary the voltage that the coil
gets so that it does not over heat and fail. The coil needs more power
(voltage in this case) at higher RPM when it is firing more sparks per
minute and less voltage at lower RPM. My understanding is the the coil
will get about 6 volts through the ballast resistor at idle and
more at higher RPM.
During the starting process the coil is by-passed so it sees the entire
voltage from the battery. Too high a voltage at the coil could be a bad
ballast resistor (as you appear to have) or a short in the by-passing
circuit.
The 45K volt coil that I have uses a much lower resistance ballast
resistor than stock, presumably because it requires more power to get to the
higher (45K) voltage.
I do not know how old your coil is, but when I run into situations
like this I like to change out all of the "wear" parts which would include
the ballast resistor, coil, condensor etc.
-----
Original Message ----- From: "Chris Strohmeyer"
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject:
Fw: IML: Carter AFB running Question Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2006 15:16:41
-0800
Look below, Can too much voltage to the coil be making it
run erratically? Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris
Strohmeyer" To:
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 6:34
PM Subject: Re: IML: Carter AFB running Question
> I may
have found part of the problem. I > checked the vacuum and its
around 15 which is > fine. > But, I checked the voltage at
the coil while > it's running and it's at 12 v. Should be 6v
> right? So I checked it at the ballast > resistor and it's
12v on one side and 13.5 on > the other. I think the ballast is
wasted? > > Your thoughts? > Chris > -----
Original Message ----- From: "D. Howland" >
To: > Sent: Tuesday, December 26,
2006 1:30 PM > Subject: Re: IML: Carter AFB running
Question > > >> Have you tried this: >> Run
it at 2500 rpm. Close the choke plate >> (or block what you
believe to be the >> offending venturi(s)) with your hand. Does
>> it get better? If you have a fuel starvation >>
issue and you block a bunch of air, it >> should smooth out as
the mixture improves. >> >> I'm not sure what the fuel
is supposed to >> look like at that rpm as I'm somewhat timid
>> about sticking my face over a poor running >> carb
at much more than idle. I like my >> eyebrows
intact. >> >> Daryl >> ----- Original Message
----- From: "Chris >> Strohmeyer"
>> To:
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 26,
2006 1:04 PM >> Subject: IML: Carter AFB running Question/2
>> Budd calipers on the way
fr.calipersonline >> >> >>> Hi again
experts, >>> >>> I'm having a running problem that
I still >>> think is carburetion. It only idles ok,
>>> and runs erratically at say 2500 rpm. >>>
This is what I've done so far: >>> Changed distributor,
cap,rotor, wires and >>> plugs. Also have tested it with
another >>> coil-same results. I've checked voltage to
>>> the coil too. >>> I've checked the
compression cold and get >>> 125 per cylinder across the
board. The >>> engine has about 30 k on it. >>>
I've also sprayed/checked for vacuum leaks, it seems
solid. >>> I have personally rebuilt the carb with a
>>> kit and have had the top off once to check
>>> to if the float level was ok..etc. >>> What
I'm suspicious of the way the fuel >>> looks going down the
primary at a steady >>> 2500 rpm. It sort of drools unevenly
in >>> both venturis. The "sucking" sound it >>>
makes is not uniform. I thought instead of >>> slurping or
drooling in, it should look >>> more like a vapor going
in. >>> When I shut it off and look down the carb
>>> it stays dry like the float level isn't too
>>> high. >>> I rebuilt the carb first because it
ran >>> this way before I did all this stuff. This
>>> still "feels" like a fuel problem. If I >>>
had a spare good carb, that would certainly >>> prove
it. >>> >>> Any thoughts? >>>
Thx, >>> Chris >>> 67 Imperial
Convertible >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kenyon
>>> Wills" >>> To:
>>> Sent: Tuesday, December
26, 2006 10:36 AM >>> Subject: IML: 1967-69 Budd Calipers
available
soon >>> >>> >> >> >> >>
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