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We carry a 6 volt Optima battery with us and cables.
No one makes a 6 volt portable charger/starter as for 12volt. The optima 6
volt is juat a bit heavier than a 12 volt portable charge.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, December 23, 2006 12:29
PM
Subject: Re: IML: Converting Six to
Twelve
Just a question, how would you handle, the need for a jump-start, on
a roadside emergency?
Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.
--------------
Original message --------------
From: randalpark@xxxxxxx
You bet. We are all here to help out.
As for the electrical conversion, So far I have not found it necessary
to do this to any of my 6 volt positive ground cars. One of them is a
Lincoln V-12, other owners of which mostly believed that this
conversion should be done without question. I simply made sure that
everything was in tip top shape, installed an 8 volt marine battery, and
adjusted the regulator to compensate. The car starts easily cold or hot, and
I am able to run all systems without reconfiguration or concern.
My 1955 Imperial seems to be fine in every respect with a standard six
volt car battery. I disconnect it between runs, and find the car easy to
start under all driving conditions. This car had a seized engine
due to sitting when I bought it, but apparently was in great shape when
parked. It runs flawlessly with great oil pressure and no smoke.
I question the need for this conversion, unless you plan to install a
big stereo. Even then I would recommend investigating a converter for the
accessory rather than converting the entire car. If everything else is
working correctly, you shouldn't need 12 volts to keep it reliable.
Paul W.
-----Original Message-----
From:
a1web@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Fri, 22
Dec 2006 1:40 AM
Subject: RE: IML: HUB Assemblies Front/Rear, Was Do Or
Die
Thanks Paul thats
allot of good information. I have only been a member about 1 month. I have
had this 47 for about 15 years its been parked in a shop for the last 10.
The pullers broke after weeks of frustration. I have had several people look
at the rear hubs and they to just cant figure whats keeping them on. At
first I refered to a shop manual I followed the instructions thats how
the fronts came off . But after trying everything under the sun and then sum
those babys just wont give I put the front bearing back in and all wheels
are turning. One thing I just got to do is switch this 6 volt to a 12 volt.
It looks like a regulator to replace generator and voltage regulator
and thats it right . If you have any advise on that I would love to
hear it. thanks again I love all these points of view. I wish some of yaa
lived closer to me !! Ernie Stepney
<estepney@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
The washers and
clips sound like the anchor pin to shoe retainers; if the brakes are
similar to my 38 which I think they are.
Ernie and The
Black Bitc_!!
-----Original
Message-----
From:
mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
randalpark@xxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2006
5:58 AM
To:
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: IML: HUB Assemblies
Front/Rear, Was Do Or Die
Hey there,
don't do any more until you read
the shop manual. The front hubs are not assembled
anything like the rears. Front hubs have a small press fit cap,
followed by cotter pin, hub nut, washer, outer bearing, outer race
(press fit), inner bearing, inner race (press fit), and if you are
this far, followed by backing plate bolts, brake assembly w/backing plate,
seal/gasket/spacer, and finally the front axle w/backing plate mounting
surface in that order. There is little to no variation
between makes and models of the period.
Photographs of
this assembly appear in nearly any general auto repair manual. Chrysler
manuals at the OIC website from nearly any year should offer enough
information to put this together. Do not drive the
car until you are sure that the front hubs are
installed correctly.
For the rears,
you have seen the many posts about how to remove the hubs. If you
have broken two pullers, then I will submit that you still have the
wrong equipment/tools. Once you have resummed with another puller, I want
to remind that the axle nut MUST be used as a safety. While
the puller is on the car, and under tension, the drum can POP off at any
time. If part of you is in the way, you could be seriously hurt or killed.
I have seen these fly across a garage and go though the
wall.
If you get the
front wheels working and are able to drive the car a small amount you
may be able to loosen the rears by reinstalling the rear hub nuts, cotter
pins, and wheels and drive the car a short distance. Another
post suggested swapping out the entire third member, which may turn out to
be your best solution.
The job can be
done and those rear drums will come off. Based on your post, I am afraid
that you are relying too much on this list, and not using the proper
manuals to provide procedures. If you don't have a good shop manual, you
may be able to find one in the public library, or on the OIC, as
mentioned. I recommend a thorough review before doing anything
more.
-----Original Message-----
From:
a1web@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thu, 21
Dec 2006 2:37 AM
Subject: Re: IML: Drum-Do or die
Ok guys well
still the drums will not come off. Ive broken my second puller. The reason
I was trying to pull all four drums off were because all four wheels were
frozen and would not rotate. I put the car up on blocks. A friend of mine
was able to get the front drums off without trouble. He then took the hub
apart pulled the bearing etc. He has since moved away do to a job he took
. I figured once I get the rear drums off I would see exactly how to put
the front wheels back together. well the rear drums arnt coming off but at
least now the wheels turn. I thought would just put all the tires
back on and drive it maybe that would loosen the rear drums. I put the
bearings in the front back in the way I assumed they would go but one wont
spin. Also there are some parts that I am not familar with . Like these
washers that are two pressed together with a emery cloth typ e material
inside. I looked and looked on the chrys ler website for a diagram of a
wheel bearing assembly bu t there is nothing no pictures of how it should
look and how to put them in or nothing. I found everything else I could
ever want to know but nothing on wheel bearings with a diagram. Does
anyone have a picture or diagram that I can follow so that I put these
back together right. Also there are two ring clips on both wheels where do
they go . they look important I dont see anything like that on the
rear ? any information I would be gratefull
staffel@xxxxxxxxxxx
wrote:
Mark- Dick's
advise is absolutely correct. I've had two experiences simnialr to your is
the past decade, one on a friend's 49 Plymouth- took us three weekends of
heating , Rust buster, and hub pulling till one moment- surprise- the drum
popped! Persistence & mystery.
the other was
with Clark Thomas on a 62 LeBaron we were preparing for transfer of
caretaker. We discovered that the drum would 'stick' in one palce on
rotation, and we worked after many days on the spot it was 'free'-
after reducing the shoe pressure against the drum to bare minimum. What we
found when the drum finally popped- was the linings had detached from the
shoes. Maybe your linings are riveted and not bonded- but just
wanted to mention that if the rivets popped- the 'loose brake lining'
could be contributing to your problem. I had that happen on an old Chevy
when I was a college kid-the linings were ruined by brake fluid- which
'cracked the lining'- and the linings came 'off their rivets'.
.
Calif sounds
great, but being on the east coast--- Best wishes for a happy
holiday- and success!
--
Sherman
D. Taffel
Taffel Engineering/Taffel Vintage Motors
6001 Jamina
Downs
Columbia, Maryland 21045
410-302-3930
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