The washers and clips sound like the anchor pin to shoe retainers; if the brakes are similar to my 38 which I think they are.
Ernie and The Black Bitc_!!
-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of randalpark@xxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2006 5:58 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: IML: HUB Assemblies Front/Rear, Was Do Or Die
Hey there, don't do any more until you read the shop manual. The front hubs are not assembled anything like the rears. Front hubs have a small press fit cap, followed by cotter pin, hub nut, washer, outer bearing, outer race (press fit), inner bearing, inner race (press fit), and if you are this far, followed by backing plate bolts, brake assembly w/backing plate, seal/gasket/spacer, and finally the front axle w/backing plate mounting surface in that order. There is little to no variation between makes and models of the period.
Photographs of this assembly appear in nearly any general auto repair manual. Chrysler manuals at the OIC website from nearly any year should offer enough information to put this together. Do not drive the car until you are sure that the front hubs are installed correctly.
For the rears, you have seen the many posts about how to remove the hubs. If you have broken two pullers, then I will submit that you still have the wrong equipment/tools. Once you have resummed with another puller, I want to remind that the axle nut MUST be used as a safety. While the puller is on the car, and under tension, the drum can POP off at any time. If part of you is in the way, you could be seriously hurt or killed. I have seen these fly across a garage and go though the wall.
If you get the front wheels working and are able to drive the car a small amount you may be able to loosen the rears by reinstalling the rear hub nuts, cotter pins, and wheels and drive the car a short distance. Another post suggested swapping out the entire third member, which may turn out to be your best solution.
The job can be done and those rear drums will come off. Based on your post, I am afraid that you are relying too much on this list, and not using the proper manuals to provide procedures. If you don't have a good shop manual, you may be able to find one in the public library, or on the OIC, as mentioned. I recommend a thorough review before doing anything more.
-----Original Message-----
From: a1web@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thu, 21 Dec 2006 2:37 AM
Subject: Re: IML: Drum-Do or die
Ok guys well still the drums will not come off. Ive broken my second puller. The reason I was trying to pull all four drums off were because all four wheels were frozen and would not rotate. I put the car up on blocks. A friend of mine was able to get the front drums off without trouble. He then took the hub apart pulled the bearing etc. He has since moved away do to a job he took . I figured once I get the rear drums off I would see exactly how to put the front wheels back together. well the rear drums arnt coming off but at least now the wheels turn. I thought would just put all the tires back on and drive it maybe that would loosen the rear drums. I put the bearings in the front back in the way I assumed they would go but one wont spin. Also there are some parts that I am not familar with . Like these washers that are two pressed together with a emery cloth typ
e material inside. I looked and looked on the chrys ler website for a diagram of a wheel bearing assembly bu t there is nothing no pictures of how it should look and how to put them in or nothing. I found everything else I could ever want to know but nothing on wheel bearings with a diagram. Does anyone have a picture or diagram that I can follow so that I put these back together right. Also there are two ring clips on both wheels where do they go . they look important I dont see anything like that on the rear ? any information I would be gratefull
staffel@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Mark- Dick's advise is absolutely correct. I've had two experiences simnialr to your is the past decade, one on a friend's 49 Plymouth- took us three weekends of heating , Rust buster, and hub pulling till one moment- surprise- the drum popped! Persistence & mystery.
the other was with Clark Thomas on a 62 LeBaron we were preparing for transfer of caretaker. We discovered that the drum would 'stick' in one palce on rotation, and we worked after many days on the spot it was 'free'- after reducing the shoe pressure against the drum to bare minimum. What we found when the drum finally popped- was the linings had detached from the shoes. Maybe your linings are riveted and not bonded- but just wanted to mention that if the rivets popped- the 'loose brake lining' could be contributing to your problem. I had that happen on an old Chevy when I was a college kid-the linings were ruined by brake fluid- which 'cracked the lining'- and the linings came 'off their rivets'. .
Calif sounds great, but being on the east coast--- Best wishes for a happy holiday- and success!
--
Sherman D. Taffel
Taffel Engineering/Taffel Vintage Motors
6001 Jamina Downs
Columbia, Maryland 21045
410-302-3930
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