Chris----- Original Message ----- From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 5:10 PM Subject: RE: IML: CALIPERSONLINE
Someone who says he has "LOTS" of parts for these braking systems is probably thinking of the much more common disc brake calipers used on thelesser and later cars. Make sure he is talking about the Budd brakes before you send money. I would be surprised to find anyone other than Lowell Howewith "LOTS" of these. Dick Benjamin -----Original Message----- From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Chris Strohmeyer Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 9:05 AM To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: IML: CALIPERSONLINE I just talked to Mark at calipersonline http://www.calipersonline.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=36 He says he has LOTS of rebuilt calipers for my 67 Imperial and others. His calipers are stainless steel sleeved and have a lifetime warranty when ordered in pairs. He was nice and very helpful and i highly recommend him. Give him a call at 810-278-5865 Chris 67 Imperial convertibleStrohmeyer ----- tall it.Steve----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Strohmeyer" <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 6:12 PM Subject: Re: IML: 727 leakOh, ok. Got it. I'll buy a tranny gasket before I take this on. While I have your knowledge, the kickdown adjusting screw may be leaking too.Does the threaded shaft have to come out or is there an o ring just underthe nut? Thx for your help,ChrisOriginal Message -----From: "Stevan Miner" <miner@xxxxxxxxxxx> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, December 18, 2006 3:43 AM Subject: Re: IML: 727 leakHi Chris, There is no seal on the kickdown adjusting screw. If it is seeping oil, I just use a little Teflon white sealer on the threads when I reins----- Original Message ----- From: "Stevan Miner" <miner@xxxxxxxxxxx>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 3:11 PM Subject: Re: IML: 727 leakYou'll never get it out far enough to get at the o-ring with the tailshaft in place. I suppose you could take all the bolts out of the tailshaft and rotate it around so that the ear was no longer blocking the shaft. I'd be concerned about the gasket then between the case and the tailshaft leaking.----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Strohmeyer" <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 4:34 PM Subject: Re: IML: 727 leakHi Stevan, If the o ring is 1/4" in from the end, and I can move it 1/2" to the ear blocking it, what prevents me from replacing it right there? Chris----- Original Message ----- From: "Stevan Miner" <miner@xxxxxxxxxxx>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 1:00 PM Subject: Re: IML: 727 leakHi Chris, The tailshaft must come off as the shaft exits out the back of the case. The o-ring is just a standard one that you can buy at any partsstore. Just bring the old one along and compare. If you buy a seal andgasket package for your transmission (there is several other gaskets you'll need anyway) there will be one in that kit. I use ATP brand at my shop. Stevan Miner Miner Auto Service Winnebago, MN----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Strohmeyer" <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 2:28 PM Subject: Re: IML: 727 leakThx Stevan, Doesn't that mean I could change the o ring without pulling thetailshaft? is the oring a standard one i could get at any auto store?Chris----- Original Message ----- From: "Stevan Miner" <miner@xxxxxxxxxxx>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 10:12 AM Subject: Re: IML: 727 leakHi Chris, That ear on the tailshaft prevents the shaft from working it's way out of the back of the transmission case so it is necessary to be there. The o-ring is about 1/4" from the end of the shaft so like Imentioned earlier the shaft doesn't have to completely be removed toreplace the o-ring. Make sure you lube the o-ring up good when reinstalling the shaft so that it doesn't get damaged on the case edge. It's a fairly tight fit in the case and through the servo and strut arm. Stevan Miner Miner Auto Service Winnebago, MN----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Strohmeyer" <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 10:17 AM Subject: Re: IML: 727 leakThx Stevan and Dave, The shaft end looks to be blocked only by a useless ear of the tailshaft. It appears like the designers put it there by accident which prevents me from sliding the shaft rearward no more that about 1/2" . I wonder if the o ring is within 1/2" of the end? Is the shaft stationary or does it move on it's axis or forward and aft? Thx guys, Chris 67 Imperial Convertible----- Original Message ----- From: "Stevan Miner" <miner@xxxxxxxxxxx>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 6:27 AM Subject: Re: IML: 727 leakHi Chris, What you have leaking is the O-ring on the end of the shaft that the low-reverse servo arm pivots on. You can change this without trans removal but it takes a little work. You'll have to remove the tailshaft. Remember there is a snap ring under the cover that is now hidden by the rear transmission mount. The pan and valve body will also have to be removed. You can then take a long punch from the inside of the case and tap that shaft rearward to get at the offending o-ring. I never completely remove the shaft just enough to replace the O-ring. Makes it alot easier to line everything back up and less chance of dislodging the reverse band strut link. I always replace as the seals and gaskets that were distributed during the procedure including the selector shaft seal. Stevan Miner Miner Auto Service Winnebago MN----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Strohmeyer" <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 12:45 AM Subject: IML: 727 leakThis is going to be hard to describe but here goes. On my 67 Imperial I have a leak at just below the vertical surface that the tailshaft bolts to. It's a small space between the lowerflange of the tailshaft and the TOP of the oil pan FLANGE. To seeit you have to look from the back of the transmission lookingforward. It's slightly off center of the tailshaft and where it'sleaking appears to look like the end of a aprox 3/4" diameter shaft. Oil is seeping from this "shaft end". I've looked at the breakaway photos of the 727 and see nothing that looks like this inside so my next step is to drain the tranny,pull the pan and see. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Thx, Chris Strohmeyer----- Original Message ----- From: "Robin Giesbrecht" <robings@xxxxxxxxxxx>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 9:59 PM Subject: Re: IML: power steering leak - O ringsYou can buy rebuild kits for the power steering pump that are really only a seal kit. There is a big oring that seals thewhole canister and a few more seals for the shaft and the reliefvalve I think. Not that hard to do. Robin Giesbrecht 72 ImperialFrom: Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx> Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: IML: power steering leak - O rings Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2006 21:26:56 -0800 (PST) --- Chris Strohmeyer <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Kenyan said........... > > 4. "Bad o-rings"? Anyone else that works on cars > where you live? That sounds like bad advice to me, > but it may be out of context and part of other info > that he gave? > > Aren't there 1 or 2 large o rings on the power > steering pump that seals the > reservoir can? > > Chris True. There are o-rings. The way that the thing's put together sorta precludes catastrophic fluid loss as described in the letter posted here, but to address the question: If I were going to pay a mechanic to deal with this, I would buy a replacement pump unit that comes with a warranty so that I didn't have to worry about it. Reason being that I don't agree with paying a mechanic to only partially rebuild a pump for a labor charge that could very likely equal or exceed the cost of a replacement. I would pay the rehab factory that will give a warranty do that portion instead and get the whole thing spec'd out by someone that does nothing but. That's what I'd do, anyway. Also, a failed O-ring seal is highly unlikely to cause the sort of rapid fluid loss described, so that's what I was thinking based on the info given, but I wasn't there. Please use an o in my name. I'm particular about that. -Kenyon ____________________________________________________________________________________Do you Yahoo!? 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