Thanks for your suggestion John, I have that already on my to do list for this weekend :) I will clean all the contacts in the fusebox until they are as new, and see what happens then. Robert Op Do, 19 oktober, 2006 7:34 am, schreef john sadowski: > If it were me, I'd replace or at least remove all of the fuses & clean > the contacts. This is a heck of a lot easier then taking things apart > looking for other problems. Many times, the worst is feared when it turns > out to be some little thing causing a problem. John > ----- Original Message ----- > From: randalpark@xxxxxxx > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2006 4:37 AM > Subject: IML: Dome Light On Half Power W/O Switches Closed > > > > I really think that this dome light issue is related to some kind of an > electrical short circuit. It has been explained that this light comes on > even if the doors and light switch are not activated. That means that the > circuit is being completed someplace else. It has to be, or the light > can't work. I know it sounds wierd, but this short might not be in the > wiring to the light itself. > > A simliar situation in my '48 Lincoln Continental resulted from a > grounded wire under the dash. In this case, the dome light became > brighter as I increased the engine RPMs. At one point, it would go out > until the RPMs fell back down to that level. I haven't mentioned this > previously because the car is six volt positive ground. Nonetheless, it > takes a completed circuit to make the light come on. Once I found the > short, the light functioned normally, and so did the rest of the car. > > Paul W. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Sent: Wed, 18 Oct 2006 1:30 AM > Subject: Re: IML: Progress of a sort on the '60 LeCrown > > > > Hi John, > > > Thanks a lot for your kind suggestion! > I will check the fusebox then to see if something is wrong there. > Might well be the case, cause about the same time my dome light stays on > at half power my wiper motor stopped working... Might be an coincidence, > but who knows? > > I will check out the fusebox this weekend! > > > Thanks, > > > Robert > > > > Op Wo, 18 oktober, 2006 4:09 am, schreef john sadowski: > >> The dome light at half power sounds like a fuse is bad. On my first 63, >> I >> had an 8 track player mounted directly below the fuses. Well , one day >> the dome light wouldn't go out & it was shining less then full power. >> Opening the doors caused the problem to move to the map light. After >> nearly pulling my hair out, I discovered the bad fuse. I put the 8 track >> back in the same place & it happened again. After the 2nd time, I >> relocated the 8 track & no further problem. John ----- Original Message >> ----- >> From: richard burgess >> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >> Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 7:24 AM >> Subject: Re: IML: Progress of a sort on the '60 LeCrown >> >> >> >> >> >> Hey Everyone, >> >> >> >> Since we're all chiming in on our '60s I thought I would throw in >> another update. >> >> If you have paid attention to the saga, a big milestone has been made. >> I >> have a brand new correct windshield installed, finally! It's so >> beauutiful. I have most of the stainless back on but of course had one >> of the header clips break. Fortunately I have had parts cars. The >> trim slid around a bit so it took a couple tries to get everything >> rights. I am ready to install the dynamat insulation on the roof and >> begin windlacing installation. I have started installing >> weatherstripping on the doors. I seriously wonder how well these cars >> were sealed in the first place. The original weatherstripping was >> crushed in many places leading me to believe it never quite went the >> direction it was intended even when new. As soon as the headliner goes >> in I can start on the carpet and installing the interior which is >> already finished. >> >> The engine and transmission have now both been overhauled a second time >> due to botched work the first time. My Dad is coming down next week >> and we are going to get the drivetrain installed. This should all go >> very qwickly as we have now done it once before! I really plan on >> finishing the car sometime next Spring. this is my fourth year in this >> frame up restoration. We are then going to get the front sheetmetal on. >> >> >> Then the real troubleshootinng can begin. Once everything is hooked up >> I >> can see what does and does not work. I have laboriously added a factory >> original power lock system from a parts car using the original wiring >> harness and nos transformers. I still need one actuator for the >> driver's door. It will be things like this that I am dying to know if >> they actually work. >> >> It's going to be looking like a car again soon! >> >> >> >> Richard Burgess >> '60 Crown >> >> >> >> Rob van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: >> Hi Donn, >> >> >> >> Ahhh, the joys of owning and maintaining a 1960 Imperial... >> Been there, done that and as a matter of fact.. Still do!! >> >> >> >> Isn't it great fun to find yourself under the dash upside down (not too >> easy when you are size XXL :) trying to repair something that is >> hidden there? >> >> Right now I am trying to fix the wiper motor, it suddenly stopped >> working and haven't found out yet what is wrong. Since both the switch >> and the wiper motor are really hard to accesss this aint a job for the >> faint hearted! >> >> Another problem is that the EL dash lighting system from time to time >> fails to work, I have already thrown in a new (=rebuild) power pack but >> the dash still gets dark every now and then (after a few days everything >> is working again for an hour or so..) Must be one of the gauges that is >> shorting out I guess, so in a short time I will finding myself again >> under the dash pulling white leads from the gauges to find out which >> one is guilty. >> >> Then we have the strange problem with the dome-light, it stays on when >> the doors are closed.. And even stranger it shines it's light at half >> power or so. There must be a shortcircuit to ground (and no, the >> doorswitches are ok and so is the manual switch: with all those >> switches disconnected the dome light is still working at half power..) >> but I haven't found out yet where. >> >> I learned from Richard Burgess that there is a connectionpoint under >> the headliner, running from the manual switch to the domelight and then >> to left rear wheel well where it connected to the doorswitches, so >> problably the shortcircuit is in this area... >> >> Apart from all these electrical problems (the electrical system of the >> 60 >> model year isn't of the same quality as the rest of the car if you ask >> me) the car drives beautifully. Running strong and is shifting gears >> perfectly, all I have to do in this aspect is to sort out a rough idle. >> I >> might be in for a new harmonic damper since the timing mark seems to >> have slipped.. >> >> So enough work to do, but it is worth every minute of time that I have >> spend so far to make the car better then it was before I bought it:) It >> is fun, and to see all those faces of people looking at a car that they >> have never seen before...Well, it makes it all worth I guess! >> >> So Donn, keep up the good work and keep it runnin' >> >> >> >> All the best, >> >> >> >> Robert >> 1960 Crown 4 door Hardtop >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Op Di, 17 oktober, 2006 5:16 am, schreef Donn Reese: >> >> >>> In fits and starts the Imperial is getting more roadworthy, but good >>> grief is it putting up a fight! Maybe it's just tired and WANTS to go >>> sit in a pasture forever. I've certainly been ready to oblige a couple >>> times recently. >>> >>> The heater fan was making a loud scraping noise and the heater >>> control valve had been bypassed so I decided to pull the heater and at >>> least fix the fan. I was surprised how easy the heater unit was to >>> remove, just three screws. Turns out the plastic housing on the >>> outside face of the squirrel cage had deformed inwards pressing >>> against the squirrel cage itself. I used my heat gun to heat up the >>> plastic then pushed the face out, reforming from a concave to a convex >>> (btw, it's pretty crappy >>> plastic). But it's much quieter now and I didn't have to cut a hole in >>> the housing. >>> >>> With that fixed I removed the heater control valve and (assuming it >>> was just froze up with corrosion) proceeded to lubricate it and get >>> the valve working again. I reinstalled it and hooked up the heater >>> hoses and fired up the car. That's when I found out why it had been >>> bypassed, it leaks. Soooo, I bypassed it again and will have to scout >>> around for a new one. >>> >>> >>> I discovered the cause of the slow turn signals at idle that I >>> reported here recently.....bad flasher. I put a new one in and now it >>> works regardless of idle. Seems strange to me though. >>> >>> Amongst all of this, last week the speedometer started making a >>> horrendous noise and the needle would jump around. The OIC archive >>> came in handy, found the same symptoms there....who would have guessed >>> you have to lubricate the speedo head periodically. Definitely a new >>> one on me. Especially surprising considering they don't make it easy >>> to get any of the instruments out to do any kind of maintenance. >>> >>> I made another little test run down the highway and back and >>> everything seems to be fine for now. Let's hope it stays that way as >>> we're now getting frost at night and working outside is getting >>> chilly. >>> >>> Donn Reese >>> 1960 Custom 4dr hdtp >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- >>> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please >>> reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be >>> shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the >>> Administrators >>> should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to >>> http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- >> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please >> reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared >> with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the >> Administrators >> should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to >> http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ----------------------------------------------------------------------- >> -- >> ----- >> Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great >> rates starting at 1¢/min. > > > > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared > with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators > should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to > http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ----- > Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security > tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the > web, free AOL Mail and more. > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm