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The dome light at half power sounds like a fuse is
bad. On my first 63, I had an 8 track player mounted directly below the fuses.
Well , one day the dome light wouldn't go out & it was shining less then
full power. Opening the doors caused the problem to move to the map light. After
nearly pulling my hair out, I discovered the bad fuse. I put the 8 track back in
the same place & it happened again. After the 2nd time, I relocated the 8
track & no further problem.
John
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2006 7:24
AM
Subject: Re: IML: Progress of a sort on
the '60 LeCrown
Hey Everyone,
Since we're all chiming in on our '60s I thought I would throw in another
update.
If you have paid attention to the saga, a big milestone has been
made. I have a brand new correct windshield installed, finally!
It's so beauutiful. I have most of the stainless back on but of course
had one of the header clips break. Fortunately I have had parts
cars. The trim slid around a bit so it took a couple tries to get
everything rights. I am ready to install the dynamat insulation on the
roof and begin windlacing installation. I have started installing
weatherstripping on the doors. I seriously wonder how well these cars
were sealed in the first place. The original weatherstripping was
crushed in many places leading me to believe it never quite went the direction
it was intended even when new. As soon as the headliner goes in I can
start on the carpet and installing the interior which is already
finished.
The engine and transmission have now both been overhauled a second time
due to botched work the first time. My Dad is coming down next week and
we are going to get the drivetrain installed. This should all go very
qwickly as we have now done it once before! I really plan on finishing
the car sometime next Spring. this is my fourth year in this frame up
restoration. We are then going to get the front sheetmetal on.
Then the real troubleshootinng can begin. Once everything is hooked
up I can see what does and does not work. I have laboriously added a
factory original power lock system from a parts car using the original wiring
harness and nos transformers. I still need one actuator for
the driver's door. It will be things like this that I am
dying to know if they actually work.
It's going to be looking like a car again soon!
Richard Burgess
'60 Crown
Rob van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Hi
Donn,
Ahhh, the joys of owning and maintaining a 1960
Imperial...
Been there, done that and as a matter of fact.. Still
do!!
Isn't it great fun to find yourself under the dash upside down
(not too
easy when you are size XXL :) trying to repair something that is
hidden
there?
Right now I am trying to fix the wiper motor, it
suddenly stopped working
and haven't found out yet what is wrong. Since
both the switch and the
wiper motor are really hard to accesss this aint
a job for the faint
hearted!
Another problem is that the EL dash
lighting system from time to time
fails to work, I have already thrown in
a new (=rebuild) power pack but
the dash still gets dark every now and
then (after a few days everything
is working again for an hour or so..)
Must be one of the gauges that is
shorting out I guess, so in a short
time I will finding myself again under
the dash pulling white leads from
the gauges to find out which one is
guilty.
Then we have the
strange problem with the dome-light, it stays on when the
doors are
closed.. And even stranger it shines it's light at half power or
so.
There must be a shortcircuit to ground (and no, the doorswitches are
ok
and so is the manual switch: with all those switches disconnected
the
dome light is still working at half power..) but I haven't found out
yet
where.
I learned from Richard Burgess that there is a
connectionpoint under the
headliner, running from the manual switch to
the domelight and then to
left rear wheel well where it connected to the
doorswitches, so problably
the shortcircuit is in this
area...
Apart from all these electrical problems (the electrical
system of the 60
model year isn't of the same quality as the rest of the
car if you ask me)
the car drives beautifully.
Running strong and is
shifting gears perfectly, all I have to do in this
aspect is to sort out
a rough idle.
I might be in for a new harmonic damper since the timing
mark seems to
have slipped..
So enough work to do, but it is worth
every minute of time that I have
spend so far to make the car better then
it was before I bought it:)
It is fun, and to see all those faces of
people looking at a car that they
have never seen before...Well, it makes
it all worth I guess!
So Donn, keep up the good work and keep it
runnin'
All the best,
Robert
1960 Crown 4 door
Hardtop
Op Di, 17 oktober, 2006 5:16 am,
schreef Donn Reese:
> In fits and starts the Imperial is getting more
roadworthy, but good
> grief is it putting up a fight! Maybe it's just
tired and WANTS to go
> sit in a pasture forever. I've certainly been
ready to oblige a couple
> times recently.
>
> The heater
fan was making a loud scraping noise and the heater control
> valve
had been bypassed so I decided to pull the heater and at least fix
>
the fan. I was surprised how easy the heater unit was to remove,
just
> three screws. Turns out the plastic housing on the outside face
of the
> squirrel cage had deformed inwards pressing against the
squirrel cage
> itself. I used my heat gun to heat up the plastic then
pushed the face
> out, reforming from a concave to a convex (btw, it's
pretty crappy
> plastic). But it's much quieter now and I didn't have
to cut a hole in
> the housing.
>
> With that fixed I
removed the heater control valve and (assuming it was
> just froze up
with corrosion) proceeded to lubricate it and get the valve
> working
again. I reinstalled it and hooked up the heater hoses and fired
> up
the car. That's when I found out why it had been bypassed, it leaks.
>
Soooo, I bypassed it again and will have to scout around for a new
one.
>
>
> I discovered the cause of the slow turn signals
at idle that I reported
> here recently.....bad flasher. I put a new
one in and now it works
> regardless of idle. Seems strange to me
though.
>
> Amongst all of this, last week the speedometer
started making a
> horrendous noise and the needle would jump around.
The OIC archive came
> in handy, found the same symptoms there....who
would have guessed you
> have to lubricate the speedo head
periodically. Definitely a new one on
> me. Especially surprising
considering they don't make it easy to get any
> of the instruments
out to do any kind of maintenance.
>
> I made another little
test run down the highway and back and everything
> seems to be fine
for now. Let's hope it stays that way as we're now
> getting frost at
night and working outside is getting chilly.
>
> Donn
Reese
> 1960 Custom 4dr hdtp
>
>
>
>
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