Re: IML: crankshaft pulley repair and an unstable idle.

[sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx]

OK, maybe I did'nt clarify enough on the dampers, but I thought we were talking about Imperials, NOT 440-6PK motors. I have yet to see one in an Imp. The reason for buying a new one, would be to insure the timing marks would be correct. Second , you don't need to pull a cylinder to verify TDC, all you need is the piston stop tool, and a camshaft degree wheel. Both Chrysler tools, or any after-market cam manufacturer.If you buy a new one, you can be sure the timing marks a good for a stock Imp. motor. I thank ya'll , Dave.

 

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Rob P" <fristpenny@xxxxxxxxxxx>

> That's not exactly true. There was at least one different damper used on
> the 6pack and hipo cars. I don't think any Imperials came with that engine,
> but just to be thorough I figured I'd throw that out there. To get a NOS
> damper for my 'cuda would cost sick money.
>
> http://www.440source.com/dampers.htm
>
> Scroll down to "stock dampers" and then the chart on the very bottom.
>
> Rob
>
> >From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
> >Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: Re: IML: crankshaft pulley repair and an unstable idle.
> >Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 12:48:38 +0000
> >
> >Just to clear-up the vibration damper qu estions, all B-RB= 361-440 engines
> >pre 1971, use the same damper. (interchangeable) They can only be installed
> >one way ,as they are keyed on the crankshaft. It is possible for the outer
> >ring (with the timing mark) to shift on the rubber isolation ring, which
> >can give you a false timing setting. Buy a new one and go.Ya'll have a nice
> >day, Dave.
> >
> >-------------- Original message --------------
> >From: "Rob van der Es"
> >
> > > Hey David,
> > >
> > > Thanks for your very interesting post!
> > > Especially the last part of your message make me read it twice :)
> > >
> > > You see, I don't believe me eyes too when it comes to set the ignition
> > > timing. When I bought the car last year I found the initial timing set
> >at
> > > 16 degrees BTDC...
> > > When I adjusted it back to factory specs (10 degrees) it runs NOT Ok.
> > > I experienced a severe power loss so I set it back to the former 16
> > > degrees setting.
> > >
> > > So far so good, but how can I determine the real initial timing that is
> > > set this way??
> > > >From previous messages I have learned that the pully with the timing
> >mark
> > > on it must have slipped (maybe someone can explain how that is
> >possible?)
> > > on the balancer.
> > >
> > > I still haven't found the source for an unstable idle, it is like
> >someone
> > > is playing with the accelerator pedal all the time (you know, like
> >someone
> > > that is impatiently waiting for a traffic light). Can this also have to
> >do
> > > something with the fac t that the pulley has slipped at the harmonic
> > > balancer?
> > >
> > > I think a good start will to find the correct timing mark on the pulley
> > > and to erase the old one.
> > > What is the best way then to find the EXACT TDC of cilinder 1 ??
> > > Is there a tool that I can use for this job?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Robert
> > > Imperial Crown 4 door HT 1960
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Op Wo, 11 oktober, 2006 11:44 pm, schreef David Whitney:
> > > > The harmonic balancer is not engine specific IF IF IF IF IF your
> >engine
> > > > is internally balanced. This is an important concept. The '63 big
> >block
> > > > is internally balanced, as the cast crank was not introduced in the RB
> > > > engine until nearly a decade later. The 413 passenger vehicle engine
> >was
> > > > never produced with a cast crank. '70s RVs and trucks, maybe.
> > > >
> > > > The rule of thumb is forged crank engines are internally balanced,
> >cast
> > > > crank engines are external. If you have one of the exceptions in your
> > > > Imperial, you are already savvy and don't need to be reading this.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Externally balanced engines are identifiable by the presence of small
> > > > blobs of metal near the outside circumference of the balancer. That's
> > > > how they are "balanced", and there is a relationship between that
> > > > specific balancer and that specific engine.
> > > >
> > > > Balancers do go bad when the rubber starts to deterio rate. The early
> > > > symptoms look like your timing is going bad -- pinging, rough idle,
> >loss
> > > > of power, technicolor smoke, frogs falling from the sky, etc.
> > > >
> > > > A parts book and an interchange manual will steer you toward the
> >proper
> > > > P/N for your application. There is no reason to refurbish a balancer
> > > > unless you have a diagnosable psychiatric disorder that is commonly
> >known
> > > > by its initials. Buy new and be happy.
> > > >
> > > > To avoid worrying about your rubber, you can upgrade to a fluid
> >damper.
> > > > More expensive, more durable.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > When you change the balancer, you MUST be certain that the TDC mark
> >(the
> > > > one you use to set timing) is actually pointing to 0 on the plate
> >affixed
> > > > to the timing chain cover when cylinder 1 is at EXACT top dead center
> >on
> > > > the COMPRESSION cycle. The most common mistake is getting it 180
> >degrees
> > > > out. Having it off by a few degrees will merely make it difficult to
> >set
> > > > the timing because you won't want to believe your eyes when you see
> >how
> > > > many degrees initial advance you have.
> > > >
> > > > Some of what I have written is merely interesting. The important
> > > > sentences have words in CAPS. Not abbreviations... words.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Happy motoring,
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > David
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > '91 K-Imperial driver
> > > > '66 LeBaron dual air and every option known to man
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ---------------------------------
> > > > Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
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>
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