Re: IML: Dual Master Cylinder Install - 62 Imperial Pedal of Doom Part I
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Re: IML: Dual Master Cylinder Install - 62 Imperial Pedal of Doom Part III
- From: henry ford <fordsfairlane@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 6 May 2006 14:24:14 -0700 (PDT)
hello. I have recently rebuilt or replaced every brake part on my car. to me it sounds as if your getting air in the system again.
what condition are the rubber hoses to the rear axel and to each front wheel.
if they are the original rubber hoses then I would replace them to be on the "safe" side of things.
also when you loosen the bleeders are they clean of trash and rust that could get sucked up in them and cause problems.
(Blocking off the Ports & Standing on it). I wouldn't suggest you do this, for 1 an already weak hose or wheel cylinder could suddenly fail and you could have damaged the seals in the master cylinder. resulting in a soft pedal.
as I have learned the hard way over the years. is that when a vehicle is in need of any brake work, then you should fully inspect the ENTIRE brake system!
from the drum hardware to the proper fitment of the shoes the condition of the wheel cylinder bores and bleeders, hoses, lines along the frame rear to the front of vehicle and the mast cylinder and brake booster. if you find anything questionable or your just not sure if its leaking or not then you may need to seek a pro to help you. make no mistakes if a spring looks weak and rusty, chances are it needs replaced, you will have to be honest with yourself and don't just think how cheep can I fix this. that way of thinking can get you or someone killed.
clean everything twice to make sure rust and dirt don't undermine your repairs. also check to see what condition the brake lines running along the frame for severe rust.
in these old and sometimes neglected imperials rubber components are the first to go.
if they look old and dry rotten with tiny little cracks in them , they must be replaced.
also If your having brake problems now. and if the problem is not fixed first. then going to a dual master wont fix the problem either.
unless your 100 % sure the original master is at fault. and the rest of the brake system is in perfect working order and not compromised in any way at all. then and only then would it be safe enough to swap for a dual master.
Duckie26626@xxxxxxx wrote:
Hi to All: I Spoke of My Dual Master Cylinder Conversion Earlier. The Problems with A Bad Newly Rebuilt M/S & Cleaned Up "Old" Brakes Shoes - The Ones the Bled Out Grease + Brake Fluid When the Got Warmed Up are Solved. With Brand New
NOS Shoes On the Rear & Another Newly Rebuilt Master Cylinder On, I Made Sure it Was OK by Bleeding it Out & Dead Heading it (Blocking off the Ports & Standing on it). It's Rock Hard. I Connected Up the Rear Brakes, Bleed Them Out & They Are Rock Hard. NOW I Pipe up the Front, Bleed Them Out (Very Good) & Pipe Them Up Now a Soft Pedal ! Any Ideas. HELP Again.
Thanks & Happy Imperialing
Dave V.B Trenton Engine Plant
(Your Car, My Engine 413's + 440's)
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