I had something similar on my 69 LeBaron last year. I had decided to change from points to an electronic ignition system. I got a Pertronix II and coil which I installed according to their directions. Same symptoms as what you arre getting. One spark, but it would not run. I returned these parts and ordered a Mopar electronic distributor, Orange ECU and MSD coil and purchased a new battery. It run great the first time with these parts installed.
I have two ideas about why the Pertronix ignition did not work:
1) I may have damaged the old distributor while installing the Pertronix magnetic pickup. The mechanical advance mechanism seemed to move in a way that it should not have.
2) The battery voltage after much cranking may not have been enough for the electronic ignition components.
Don't know if this helps.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woolf,Richard T(Contractor)"
To: "'mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'"
Subject: RE: IML: My '73 won't start
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 15:02:47 -0500
Robin,
Like I said in my first email when I turn the ignition key I see one spark
from the wire from the coil, and then nothing, no more spark. The car
doesn't even start for a second. I'm wondering if one of the new electron
devices went bad that I already replaced? They all were purchase from NAPA
couple of months ago.
Rich W.
-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Robin Giesbrecht
Sent: Tuesday, March 21, 2006 2:19 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: IML: My '73 won't start
It could very well be your coil.See if you can swap another one in just to
troubleshoot. Just transfer the connections and lay the "new " coil beside
the old one and see if you get spark. Check your wiring connection that
comes from the distributor. It is a two wire connector and is about six
inches from the distributor. Also look at the same two wires that are
travelling from the ignition trigger to the connector you checked outside
the distributor. They may have been caught or rubbing on the advance
mechanism.
Also would not hurt to pop the distributor cap off, pull the rotor and take
a good look at the electronic trigger mechanism. It is where the points and
cam used to be. If there is no gap or too large a gap the ignition will not
work properly. Once this gap is set it should not change as there is no
contact to wear but something could have come loose. The gap is easy to
reset and is covered in the manual. Something else to consider: Does it
seem to start up and then die when you release the ignition switch to the
run position? I had this happen on my 72 and it was some bad wiring. There
are two different paths for the ignition power, one for starting and one for
running. Had me scratching my head for a while.
Robin Giesbrecht
72 Imperial
> From: "Woolf,Richard T(Contractor)"
> Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To: "'mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx'"
> Subject: IML: My '73 won't start
> Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 13:20:09 -0500
>
> Hello everybody,
>
> My '73 won't start, and I have replaced electronic box, ballast resister,
> and the other electrical unit on the firewall. The car did start after that,
> but since it's been sitting for a while now it won't start.
>
>
>
> I pulled the coil wire, and when I cranked the engine over I saw one spark
> and that was it. It's not the fuel, because there was plenty of gas in the
> carburetor.
>
> Is there any other spark related items I could change? How about the coil or
> something in the distributor?
>
>
>
> Rich W.
>
> '66 Crown
>
> '73 LeBaron
>
> '75 LeBaron
>
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