Re: IML: Donald's Door Panel tip
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Re: IML: Donald's Door Panel tip



I have an answer for this.  I have made some custom door panels for various cars in the past. You can use masonite, or you can simply buy thin fiberboard at your local home improvement store...which is what I do.  While you are at the home improvement store, buy a product made by 3M called Super 77.  It is a spray adhesive.  You need to apply the product to the back of your vinyl, and to your new door panel, and then give them about 15 minutes to get tacky.  Then you can put the vinyl on the panel, and make sure you have it where you want it, cause moving it at this point requires an act of God.  I lay the vinyl down on one side and work it down towards the other side with a smoothing tool that I have left over from when I used to tint and stripe cars, but you can use a wallpaper smoother cut in half to a manageable size.  Make sure you work all of the air out.  Also, I would recommend that you put an 1/8" layer of closed cell foam over your door panel before you cover it with the vinyl so that it has a "softer look."  Otherwise, you might end up with a very product that you aren't happy with the look of.  You can purchase closed cell foam by the foot at most upholstery shops.  Don't buy anything over 1/8" thick, or your door panels will be much too thick.  You have to buy closed cell foam because the adhesive will adhere to it well, it will not adhere to other very porous foams.  Really, if you make a practice door panel with some scrap or cheap purchased vinyl, you will find that door panels are pretty easy to do.  I couldn't ever understand why upholstery shops charge $150.00 or more per panel.  If you need to stretch the vinyl to smooth out your corners, you can use a heat gun, very carefully, to slightly heat the vinyl and make it pliable enough to achieve the desired amount of stretch.  Then, you just pull it around the back side of the board about an inch and use some contact cement, or spray adhesive again (if you can keep from over-spraying your project), and it will hold. 
 
Let me know how it goes.
 
Teresa Smith
1959 Imp, and various other Mopars  
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2004 6:24 AM
Subject: Re: IML: Donald's Door Panel tip

Great tip, Donald, thanks!  BTW, can someone tell me this: I intend to
replace the original door panel material with masonite. When putting the
original vinyl skin on the new panel, should I glue it down or staple it? If
I staple it, will I need an electric stapler with a really short staple, say
3/8? Are there cons to glueing it down? Thanks.
>
> From: DONALDDICKINSOND@xxxxxx
> Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2004 10:19:44 EDT
> Subject: IML: Great Fix for Fiber Board Door Panels
> Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> --part1_dd.165704e3.2e955900_boundary
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
> Are you frustrated with trying to refasten panels (door, or in my case the
> front seat back panels on my '67 convertible) that have broken around the
> wireform fasteners that are a pain in the best of circumstances?  Let me share
> with
> you a good fix.  At Auto Zone I picked up the more updated "Christmas tree"
> type plastic push on fasteners and fender washers.  If you get a fastener
> package with assorted sizes you can determine the best interference fit for
> the
> mating hole.  Assemble with the fastener on the inside of the panel and
> sandwiching the panel with a fender washer on the outside of the panel.  Glue
> and clamp
> the washer to the panel which will fix/reinforce the panel and give you a
> solid surface to pry against the next time you need to remove the panel.



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