Rob, - I seem to recall that your starter would stop turning even after it
had been engaged, - and while you were still holding the key in the start
position? - Is that correct?
If so, - then there is definetly something wrong, - with the starter itself,
or perhaps the starter relay, - or maybe even the ignition switch. Coudl
also be the neutral-safety switch in the transmission I suppose.
Easy enough to check, - using a test light, - hold it on the starter relay
connector that goes to the starter (that is probably a brown wire, - about a
12 gauge). As long as the relay is energized (key in the start position), -
you should have voltage here.
If it goes away, - the starter will stop turning. If it does go away, -
then hook the test light to the small (18ga) yellow wire. This wire should
also show battery voltage whenever the key is in the start position. If it
goes away, - suspect the ignition switch.
If this stays on, and the starter still quits turning, - then you need to
check the signal from the N/S switch. You can do this with the test light
too. Connect the "ground" end of the light to the battery POS terminal.
Now anything "grounded" that you touch with the end of the test light will
show "voltage". Touch the small brown with yellow tracer wire (20 gauge, -
very small), - this wire supplies the ground to the starter realy via the
N/S switch. If you lose a voltage reading here during cranking, - then
replace the N/S switch on the transmission (there is also a 3-way connector
over on the pass side of the engine, - near the firewall, - this wire is one
of these three. Be sure the connector and it's wires are OK).
If all the above checks out, - then the problem is either with the starter
itself, - or for some strange reason, - you are losing the battery feed to
it (you might check the BIG connection at the starter, - it comes directly
from the battery POS post, - and be sure that the battery "end" is OK).
On a possibly related note, - I have noticed that these cars have just
barely enough wiring to reach from the firewall area (more specifically the
starter relay) to the battery, and anytime a battery terminal has been
replaced (where they cut off the old one and install one of those
"temporary" ends (that's what they are - "temporary"), - that after that has
been done, the wiring becomes even shorter (no matter how many times you cut
it off, - it's *still* too short) - all you have to do is "lean" on the
wiring over in that area (driver's side, - under the hood), and you will
pull the starter feed wire (the 12ga brown one) right off the starter
relay, - so check this first. I have been successful at moving the wiring
around enough to make up for this, - with no further problems. Probably
depends on how many times the battery terminal has been replaced
though............
"Shudder"? The torque converter clutch is often the cause of "shudder", -
but not unless you are "on the gas" some, - won't do it if "coasting"
(de-cel), - or even just "cruising". Could be a brake caliper starting to
cause problems (seizing up some).
Starting fluid would indeed work just as well as dribbling a little gas into
the throttle body, - but might be more of a hassle getting it in there
(taking the air cleaner lid off every time *would* be a hassle). Might be
OK to just slide the fresh-air hose off and spray it in the "snorkle" I
would suppose.
I have owned two 81 Imperials. Both of them *did* illumate the dash
whenever the door handle was lifted.
As for the "idiot lights", - it sounds to me like the operation you describe
is normal. The "voltage" light will be illuminated whenever the battery
voltage gets below a certain point (forgot what that point is or I would
tell you), and the seat belt light will be on for a short time too whenever
you turn on the ignition. The temp light should illuminate when the starter
is being engaged. This was called a "bulb check" function, - but I think
they have gotten away from that in later years.
The operation of the speedometer display that you describe (the way the bars
light up) is *not* normal however.
Hope some of that helps......
Regards,
DaveG.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob P" <fristpenny@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, July 08, 2004 12:20 AM
Subject: IML: some more '82 questions.
> I am now pretty certain that my starter is messed up. Won't be able to
mess
> with it too much over the next week or so. I tried the fuel down the wing
> nut trick, once it seemed to work and once it didn't. Is there any reason
I
> shouldn't use starter fluid? I really don't want to carry gas around.
>
> The car has a moderate shudder at highway speeds. Particularly on
coasting.
> Is this likely the lock up converter? I'm wondering if that may be related
> to the starter problem, since it occaisionally sounds like the teeth are
> off.
>
> The dash also acts strangely. The speedo has almost all the bars lit all
the
> time. The ones for the speed you are actually going are a little brighter.
> The km/h lights up and flashes in time with the low fuel light. The dash
> goes on when you pull on the door handle. I don't think it's supposed to
do
> that. Any possible common cause for any/all of these problems. I'm hoping
> there is a ground problem causing some of it. Also, the idiot lights for
> volts and seat belt come on when you turn the key to start. The light for
> temp only comes on when the car is cranking. Which is normal?
>
> Thanks for all the help so far. In a month or two I may be able to
> concentrate on the dents.
>
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