during the 1960's Ostritch Racing Engines was well renouned for
building almost unbeatable mopar engines unfortuatly when the energy
crisis of 1973, emissions control, and high gas prices came around
people couldn't afford the gas guzzling big blocks that gary ostrich
turned out and eventually the company closed. my opinion, if this is
indeed a real ostrich engine i would snatch it up for $2500.
joel hunter wrote:
ever heard of gary ostrich engines? there's a guy on ebay selling his
old setup for 2500. pretty cheap considering the parts. here's the
description:
This engine has a lot of life left in it. The work on it was done by
Ostrich racing engines. If you had followed mopars back in the 60's
you would know the name Ostrich. It was freshened a few years back
with new rings, bearings, bores checked, etc, by Gary Ostrich. I
couldn't tell you how many passes down the track it has but I just wore
out the first pair of slicks last year since the motor was redone. I
only make it to the track 2 or 3 times a year.
Now for the good stuff. The engine has Venolia pistons, It is either
11.5 or 12 compression, can't remember for sure which, bored .055.
Steel crank, turned .010 .010, has been balanced. The block has been
decked, just enough to make sure it is square with the crank. Mopar
performance .590 lift mechanical cam. Mopar performance Stage V
heads. (These were new when I freshend the engine a few years back,
had 906 heads before that.) The valve pockets and ports on the heads
have been cleaned up. Crane 1.5 roller rockers. Mopar performance
dual valve springs. Titanium retainers. Weiand team G intake. Engine
is complete. What you see is what you get. I will repeat myself and
say it was a running engine, I drove the car into the shop. The stand
that the engine is on is NOT included in the price of the sale. The
reserve price is what I feel is very fair for this engine. The price
of the heads with the valves and springs was about $1200. You sure
couldn't put one togather for the reserve.
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You can only check the crank visually while its in the engine but
removing it can be done while the engines still in the car. you will
have to unbolt the flexplate from the torque converter and unbolt the
tranny from the engine to keep the bolts that hold the flexplate to the
crak from getting hung up on the torque converter
joel hunter wrote:
wanted to about
checking my internal parts. can you check a crank while still in the
car? if it needs to, can you replace while inside the car? i will
check both the crank and the heads soon since i have to do a gasket job
on top and bottom. figure i'd snoop around
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It would cause the transmission to slip or cause it to not move the car
at all
joel hunter wrote:
how would you know
if a torque converter was bad?
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