Try "Semichrome" or Mothers metal polish.
Rich Woolf
'66 Crown
'73 LeBaron
-----Original Message-----
From: Luis C [mailto:luis1024@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 4:47 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: wax / paint issues/chome rust
What can you guys recommend for a chome cleaner. I
have pin point rust spots on my 68 and I want to get
rid of them. Any one have any suggestions? Thanks
everybody. Luis
--- W Bell <cbody67tx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I've used that particular wax with good results,
> just as with other Meguiar's products I've used.
> What IS important for any wax to really work is to
> have good paint underneath it--this is where the
> extra work comes in for basic initial prep.
>
> If the paint can't be brought up to a hard shine
> after buffing (I personally like the orbital buffers
> rather than the classic buffer), then no wax will
> make up the difference, but it will look better when
> done. What I've used to get things started was a
> particular Meguiar's buffing compoung (whose grit
> dissolves after a short time) and use it only as
> little as necessary. Then, after wiping it all
> down, follow that with their glaze to put the oils
> back into the paint. I discovered that letting that
> cure for a few days before another coat was a good
> strategy.
>
> After the glaze is done, then I follow that with the
> straight wax product. Takes more time than with a
> one-step product, but it looks better too.
>
> In cases where it's in basically better shape, using
> the old "red bottle" Meguiar's liquid was is a good
> starting place. It might take a couple of
> applications, spaced out over several days, to get
> things to where they need to be. Then the straight
> wax on top of that.
>
> No easy feat. I also know how long those quarter
> panels, hoods, tops, and deck lids can be!!! But,
> when done, it'll be worth it. Just be sure that as
> soon as you start seeing primer bleed through, END
> of the cleaner stuff. Also, with the orbital
> buffer, use a towel-like buffing mit as with the
> thicker lambswool mits (as the high speed buffers
> would use), the buffer will just sit there and
> vibrate with the mit remaining stationary. I
> haven't used any of the foam ones, though.
>
> For wiping, old towels work well. In the case of
> the glaze, buffing it one day and then buffing it
> the next day can make it shine even more (as more of
> the oils have dried from the initial buffing).
>
> I've also observed that different colors have
> different durability factors on wax. Seems that
> black just cooks it off regardless of what it is,
> but some last longer than others.
>
> Just my own observations and experiences,
> W Bell
>
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