Whoa, Nelly!
Any vacuum leak will upset the mixture - regardless of the vacuum reserve
tank - the leakage is still causing the engine's intake system to ingest the
extra air it takes to make up for the leak.
Don't fiddle with the carburetor until you eliminate ALL leakage from the
vacuum system. To check the effect of this, you can disconnect and plug the
hose from the brake booster temporarily to see how the car runs without the
leak.
Duct tape? I wouldn't trust that for more than a few seconds in a brake
system. Get the bellows replaced before you drive the car.
Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hugh & Therese" <hugtrees@xxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Brake booster & duct tape
Bill,
Short of getting a new booster concertina from Karpps in California, there
is another, better and safer, way to get your brakes working again. I used
it for years and it never let me down. What you do is get a large truck
inner tube and cut out a section just a little longer than the booster. The
hard part is "fitting" it. Two long, thin, screwdrivers at each end of the
booster help but anyway you face it, it is hard work. You have to slide the
inner tube section over the entire unit. It will conform to each valley as
you proceed. The two screwdrivers will ameliorate this tendency somewhat.
Once on, the inner tube conforms to the shape of the booster. Vacuum is
restored. The break in the original unit actually helps a little, as the
inner tube will be pulled into the crack.
I found that having the booster in place on the fire wall helped with the
installation of the inner tube.
I hate to think that you are trying to create vacuum with duct tape. It
won't work. The ridge, where the break is, is being simultaneously pulled
in by the vacuum and pushed out by the contraction of the unit. Factor in
heat and the duct tape will be off after the first compression.
I don't know why you are experiencing a better running engine. The vacuum
is held in the tank, not the booster unit. Maybe you have a defective
release valve in the unit as well. If you bypass the unit and the tank by
routing the inlet valve hose to the return pipe on the engine, if you
experience a smoother idle, you may need a total rebuild of your entire unit
and not just the rubber exterior.
Karpps will take care of the whole unit for you when you are ready. Find
the at:
www.resleeve.com
Hugh
----- Original Message -----
From: Imperial59crown@xxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2003 7:40 PM
Subject: IML: Brake booster & duct tape
I thought it was about time I took the Imperial for a short drive today,
since it hasn't been driven in almost a month. I wrapped some duct tape
around the brake booster where the split was, and amazingly the car was
running much better, and the brakes were touchy once again. I realize this
is a very temporary solution, but at least it gave me a taste of what the
car will perform like once I get the brake booster rebuilt. It was still
sputtering a bit, and died out at a few stoplights, but I think the
carburetor may also need some help. At least it gives me some hope for the
near future, and without having to rebuild the engine.
Bill '59 Crown
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