Drum Puller (was '56 Brake Questions)

[William Parker <parkerw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

John Harvey wrote:
> 
> You must not only use the correct tool,  you must use the tool correctly.
> You do not install it, then keep turning until something moves.  What you do
> is install it, with the center nut on fully thread engaged, but not tight,
> and put some tension on it. If you don't seem to be getting any response,
> you do not keep twisting until something happens.  You stand aside, ring on
> the outer edges of the drum with a hammer--you are setting up vibrations,
> not trying to beat it off--then walk away.  Come back in an hour or so, and
> add a little more tension, then ring on it some more.   Something like
> LIquid Wrench or WD-40 on the spline is a great idea.  You let tension and
> time do the job, not brute force.


The correct puller is meant to use a hammer on the screw. 
Tighten until you have tension, then strike the end of the
screw with a hammer, a 2 lb sledge works well.  Then strike
the "striker" around, which you'll note is shaped for
exactly this operation, placing more tension on.  Then
strike the head of the screw again.  This tool is designed
for use exactly this way.  

I had a J.C. Whitney version break apart on me many years
ago, just as others have described.  Fortunately I've never
had any problem with the two Snap On versions I have, during
many uses.

-- 
Bill Parker, South Central Indiana
'62 Plymouth Max Wedge; '64 Dart Convertible (Kathi's car);
'65 Imperial; '65 Barracuda \6 (Kathi's other car); '68 Hemi
Roadrunner; '68 Barracuda Fastback 340-S; '69 Barracuda
Fastback now 360 (20 y.o. son's car); '72 Cuda 340



Bill and Kathi, South Central Indiana