ammeter guage again

["Gene Satterfield" <esatterf@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I had the same problem with my '65.  The connections appeared to be tight,
but when I removed the gage to replace it I found that the connection in the
gage itself where it connects to the stud was slightly loose.  Enough to
raise the resistance. I checked the connections on the replacement gage for
tightness and I have had no problems for the last five years.  The old gage
could be used again with a little work where the melting took place.

Gen '65 vert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bar00n" <baroon@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2003 11:50 AM
Subject: Re: IML: ammeter guage again


> The higher /avaliable/ output of an aftermarket alternator won't come into
> play unless you have something that needs a LOT of current. Say for
instance
> that your car requires 40amps at 13volts to run headlights, heater and
> ignition.  Your 50amp alternator has no problem.  If you swap that for a
> 100amp alternator, the car will still only pull 40amps with headlights,
> heater & ignition.  The difference is when you get a high current load.
> For instance, you left the lights on and the battery is dead, now the
> alternator needs to provide 40amps to run your regular stuff, AND more to
> charge the battery. Say the battery needs 20 amps, now you are up to
60amps
> which is easy for the alternator but if your ampgauge and associated
wiring
> only handles a max of 50, you're in trouble. Ideally only the fusible link
> should burn, but ya never know.
>
> I don't know enough of the insides of the gauge to tell if there's
something
> there that can be cleaned, but if you get heat, there is resistance
> somewhere.
>
> If you are looking to bypass the ampgauge or atleast read about it, check
> the technical info part of my webpage.
>
> Carl
> http://www.robdiesel.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Oneof514@xxxxxxx>
>
>
> I am having trouble with the ammeter gauge on my 66 Imperial.  The plastic
> gauge housing is melting!
> The meter leads and the wire leads are corrosion free and the connections
> nice and tight.
> My alternator is a later model replacement that has a higher output than
the
> original 1966 model.  Is this the cause of my trouble?
>
>
>