The higher /avaliable/ output of an aftermarket alternator won't come into
play unless you have something that needs a LOT of current. Say for instance
that your car requires 40amps at 13volts to run headlights, heater and
ignition. Your 50amp alternator has no problem. If you swap that for a
100amp alternator, the car will still only pull 40amps with headlights,
heater & ignition. The difference is when you get a high current load.
For instance, you left the lights on and the battery is dead, now the
alternator needs to provide 40amps to run your regular stuff, AND more to
charge the battery. Say the battery needs 20 amps, now you are up to 60amps
which is easy for the alternator but if your ampgauge and associated wiring
only handles a max of 50, you're in trouble. Ideally only the fusible link
should burn, but ya never know.
I don't know enough of the insides of the gauge to tell if there's something
there that can be cleaned, but if you get heat, there is resistance
somewhere.
If you are looking to bypass the ampgauge or atleast read about it, check
the technical info part of my webpage.
Carl
http://www.robdiesel.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oneof514@xxxxxxx>
I am having trouble with the ammeter gauge on my 66 Imperial. The plastic
gauge housing is melting!
The meter leads and the wire leads are corrosion free and the connections
nice and tight.
My alternator is a later model replacement that has a higher output than the
original 1966 model. Is this the cause of my trouble?
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