Everyone is concerned about the volts being put out by an alternator, but
overlook something that is just as important - AMPS.
Putting an 86-amp alternator will not damage your car's wiring or the
alternator gauge - so put it back on line. Regardless of amperage, the
wiring was the same for all units at factory anyway, with differences being
made for options, engines and equipment. And it does not put out 86 amps
continuously. Only up to 86 amps, if needed.
The most important thing to remember when replacing an alternator is to make
sure the one you are buying is not putting out fewer amps than the one you
are replacing. If you do get an alternator putting out fewer amps, you
will have dimming lights at idle and the like.
I once owned a 1974 Sebring, 318, with a 60-amp alternator, The bearings
went and I had it replaced with another. Turned out it was a 34-amp unit
for a slant six Valiant. Being winter, the car was being driven with heater
fan and lights on, plus the radio. Within three hours the lights were
dimming when driving at 40 mph. The next day I returned the alternator and
that was when the difference was discovered. Putting in a 60-amp alternator
returned the electrical system back to its normal operation. With heater,
lights and radio on, there was a slight discharge at idle (normal) but with
the lights off, no discharge.
Bill
Vancouver, BC
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike and Cindy
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2002 9:33 PM
Subject: IML: alternator upgrade
Thought I would share this info with others on the list.The original
alternator on my 67 imp was always inadequate at idle and low rpms.
Especially with the lights on and the defroster fan operating. Being a
single field type it just can't put out the current at low rpms.I put a
digital volt meter in the car so I could see precisely what my electrical
system was doing, at idle usually less than 12 volts, at cruise 14.6, which
means underpowering my car and draining the batt at low rpms, overcharging
the batt at cruise.I decided to find a better alternator. I took a
measurement of the case where it mounts at the bottom and pulley, went to an
auto parts store and looked/compared to some newer mopar alternators. I
found a late 80's dodge truck alt. with a pulley that was the same ,but a
hair smaller diameter, the mounting at the bottom was the same but required
switching the mounting bushings with the original alternator(the overall
alternator case is similar the 67 alt., but larger). This newer alt is a
dual field which puts out at least twice as much current at idle(the
slightly smaller pulley helps even more). And puts out 86 amps at speed.
Because of the larger current capability I by-passed the amp gauge in the
dash(for safety reasons, having all that current flow thru the dash is a
design flaw in mopars anyway) and used the digital volt meter under the dash
to monitor the electrical system. At the same time I upgraded to the mopar
solid state voltage regulator also. Now from idle to cursing speed, with all
the lights on, fan on blinkers, brake lights, radio on it never goes below
13 volts and at cruise never goes over 13.7 volts, WAY BETTER. It works so
well, I am very happy with it, if anybody on the list is interested in this
type of upgrade , I would be glad to provide more details.
Mike Becker 67 croen 4dr 67 vert 67 lebaron other mopars
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