I'm sorry, but NO these ratings aren't SAE GROSS numbers. They're SAE NET, which as you know are alot closer to what the engine will put out actually in the car. That 380 hp 360 is actually MORE powerful than many of the old big blocks which were given optimistic SAE GROSS ratings back in the day. --- "D. Dardalis" <dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > Please see comments inserted between sections of > posts. > > > > They have 360's rated at 300 hp and 380 hp, and > they > > > come with warranties. I think the 300 hp version > is > > > around $3000, > > People, please keep in mind these ratings are based > on the old 60's gross > standards. The reason is simple. Most "gearheads" > that buy these engines > think in terms of the 60's, so the bigger the number > is, the more likely > people will buy them. The 135 hp rating of the > stock 318 was "net". > > >The 360 would add a little performance, so long as > you opened-up the > >special EFI intake manifold ports to 360 size vs. > 318. > I am not sure how feasible that is. When you change > the geometry of the > intake system and the total engine displacement, the > total air flowrate of > the engine for a given rpm/MAP is changed. So, the > stock look-up tables > are now way off. Some EFI systems have some > "learning" potential, but this > is a big change that such an old system may not be > able to "learn". Even > if it kind'o runs, chances are the emissions > performance will not be good > enough. DB will know more about the learning > abilities of these old systems. > > >Dumping the 2.20 axle will do a lot more for > low-end grunt anyways. > Now, this is a great suggestion. Reducing the gear > to say, 3.23 or 3.55 > will actually help performance throughout the speed > range. 2.20 is a > horrible gear selection if you are interested in > performance. If these > cars have a 4 speed with OD (don't know), you will > still maintain some > descent cruising. In fact, you may be able to climb > hills on high gear > that may have not been possible before. > > Now, for those really determined to make a hot-rod > out of an 81-83 and > willing to spend lots of time and $ on the process, > could consider the > following: Add a supercharger! These low > compression engines with tiny > cams are ideal for supercharging. If the blower > clutch is disconnected at > part load, the system will operate just like the > stock system did, and > still pass smog inspection. They never test > emissions at WOT as far as I > know. Then, the EFI will have to be somehow > programmed to provide extra > fuel when the manifold gauge pressure is positive. > There may be ways one > can achieve that. On the other hand, if you really > need a hot-rod > Imperial, it may be cheaper and far more effective > to just buy a 68! > D^2, 2x68s > > >