I have repaired them with exactly the same equipment that I used to do the copper pipe sweat fittings when I built our home. My only caution would be that you should use the non-acid flux, and don't use a MAPP gas torch - they are too hot for this thin copper. I think taking the whole tank off would result in a large amount of soldering, probably too much for someone who hasn't done it before. I'd be afraid to tackle this much myself, unless I was in that Sahara desert again. But if you are brave - have at it! The problem won't come in getting the top tank off, it will occur when you try to line everything up and get it to sweat all the way around at the same time without getting a "cold" joint anywhere. Cleanliness is the watchword here, too. All the metal should be bright and shiny before you start heating it. I just repaired a quite large hole in the bottom tank of my dozer's radiator (a 3/8 bolt got driven right through it!) and so far it's holding (fingers crossed). The tank was also dented in at the same location, and it started to crack when I tried to pull it back out. I just soldered a penny over the hole. As for the paint, the best paint would be something with zero thickness (insulation R-value), and a high emissivity/absorptivity ratio. Actually, the best paint would be titanium dioxide (we used it on high gain radar dishes to keep from thermal warping in the sun), but it cost almost $1000 a gallon! (Your tax dollars at work!) I suppose someone could formulate a better paint than plain Krylon flat black, but they'd have to be quite knowledgeable about the physics of thermal emission - I question whether anyone with that background is employed compounding paint, but perhaps there is such a vendor. Dick Benjamin ----- Original Message ----- From: Frank Griffin <frankrad4@xxxxxxxx> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 8:40 PM Subject: Re: IML: Gunk radiator repair? > I have seen radiator paint for sale that is supposed to allow better > heat transfer, I wonder if this paint is any different from any flat > black engine paint. I have a propane torch, is the solder and flux any > different from what you would use for a copper pipe? Is it beyond a DIY > to remove the whole tank? I think the dent is repairable, it is very > blunt without any sharp creases to push out. > Frank > > On Wed, 22 May 2002 17:26:39 -0700 "Dick Benjamin" <DickB@xxxxxxxxx> > writes: > > In general, it is a good idea to be very sparing with paint on a > > radiator, > > as it impedes the heat transfer. If you want to paint the tanks, > > fine, but > > keep to a very thin 'dusting' of flat black on the fins. > > > > Putting sealant in a car is always a last resort, as it inevitably > > hastens > > the day when the whole cooling system will need to be cleaned out, > > including > > the block passages. If I were stuck with a hole in my radiator in > > the > > middle of the Sahara Desert and only one 6-pack of beer to keep the > > cooling > > system full, I'd use sealer too (I'd use the powdered aluminum stuff > > that is > > usually next to the cash register at your local NAPA store, which > > sells for > > 99 cents), but unless it is an emergency like that, I think you > > should have > > it fixed right. If they take the top tank off to fix it, perhaps > > you can > > persuade them to push the dent out for you, but copper is > > notoriously > > brittle when it gets old, they may refuse to take the chance. > > Depending on > > how bad the leak is, and where it is, they may be able to solder it > > for you > > without even removing it from the car (or if you have a propane > > torch and > > the right solder and flux, you can do it yourself). > > > > Dick Benjamin > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Frank Griffin <frankrad4@xxxxxxxx> > > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 10:22 AM > > Subject: IML: Gunk radiator repair? > > > > > > > I have developed a small leak in my radiator, it is at the seam > > where > > > the top tank is. Someone suggested using the some gunk sealer to > > fix it. > > > Can it do any harm adding it to my Imps cooling system? If I pull > > the > > > radiator and bring it to a shop to be fixed I plan on repainting > > it > > > before I put it back in the car. I would like to remove a ding > > that is on > > > the top of the tank near the corner. Do they do do that sort of > > thing at > > > radiator shops and how much more would it add to the cost of > > repairing > > > the seam? > > > Frank > > > > > > > > > > > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- > > > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please > > > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be > > > shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the > > > Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > > To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > > > > > > > > > > > >