Both techniques should work ! But I think that the rope technique is a little safer to carry out. Imagine what happens if your air compressor hose suddenly get loose...I believe quite a bunch of people on this list have used both tricks with good results, so it is just your personal preference which one to use.
As mentioned above, with the rope technique you don't have to worry about a sudden airpressure drop down!
Robert----- Original Message ----- From: "Burton Bouwkamp" <northburt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 10:17 PM Subject: IML: REPLACE VALVE SEALS
Dan,There are at least two techniques for replacing the valve seals without removing the heads. One is with air pressure (through the spark plug hole) to hold the valves closed while removing/installing the seals. Another is to insert 6 to 7 feet of nylon rope through the spark plug hole and compress it above the piston to hold the valves closed while removing/installing the seals.I need to replace the valve seals on my 1968 Dodge Charger (383 "B" engine) but I haven't had the nerve to try either technique. Have any of the Imperial Club members had success with these techniques - or any other tricks that I don't know about.?Burt Bouwkamp----- Original Message ----- From: <therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx>To: "IML" <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 1:20 PM Subject: IML: Oil usage theoriesHello everyone (& Dave):I have excessive oil usage on my '67 Imperial engine. Not much of a surprise with 150K+, and sitting for a decade. 1 quart/150 miles at 70 mph, & 1 quart/300 miles at 45ish avg. mph around town. I know the correct answer is to do a complete rebuild. Can't quite pop for that right now, as there are too many other priorities for my next $3000.Compression check months ago was OK, no blue smoke at cold start up (even if sitting for days), no blue smoke at hard acceleration, or after idle - just no blue smoke at all. Idles and drives quite well, gets about 11 mpg. Pulled the plugs yesterday after 3000 miles, and they were nicely tanned/greyed, clean everywhere except wet oil on the threads.Dave had mentioned earlier that big block Mopars have a tendency to need valve seals. If that is what's indicated by the above evidence, I could probably find the resources to pull the heads.Any expert (or otherwise) theories and thoughts would be most welcomed. Dan Richardson 300L Family Heirloom ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to iml.webmonster@xxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for theAdministrators should be sent to iml.webmonster@xxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
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