Re: IML: Oil usage theories
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Re: IML: Oil usage theories



HI Dan,

Just another thought crossed my mind, since your car has only recently been pulled out of the grave (your own words :), could it be that your engine suffers from sticking piston rings?

In my opinion 90-125 isn't that high, allthough it should be good enough.
To free the piston rings you can add some Marvell's Mystery Oil to the engine oil (after the dipstick reading learns that you are on the Low mark again..). Some people have had also good results with adding ATF to both the oil and fuel!

Just my 2 cents :)

Robert
----- Original Message ----- From: <therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 9:30 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Oil usage theories


Thanks Fred and Mark and Dave and Michael:

I will try the downhill deceleration test, and also another compression test to see where I'm at after 3000 miles from resurrection. If I can help lessen oil consumption with valve seals, I may just have the heads completely redone - then I would have that part completed for a few hundred bucks. On the other hand, I don't want to speed up the rebuild timetable either. Is that really a likely possibility? Is it safer to just do seals in-vehicle?

I would think if I had bad rings, I would see oil fouling on the plugs - not just wet threads. Bad rings wouldn't get me 90 - 125 psi compression either, I assume. Oil fill is correct - 4 qts. with out filter. Intake valley pan is another thought.

I really haven't let it get more than 1 quart low - I'd rather just keep it full for now. This poor girl has only recently been pulled out of the grave, and I still need to keep her hooked up to life support. Ultimately, a engine rebuild will be needed, but I want to continue to enjoy her until I can afford to do a complete job. It's all about the enjoyment, right?

Thanks for the info.

Dan Richardson
300L Family Heirloom


-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Frederick Joslin" <fljoslin@xxxxxxxx>
Hi Dan:You can change the valve seals without pulling the heads if you
really need to.However, if you do pull the heads you can rebuild the
heads, install teflon seals and get a good look at the cylinder walls
Have you tried a more viscous oil? Things in an engine can change quickly
so you should really do a leak down test or at least another compression
test to see where you stand now. Good luck.

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx


  Hello everyone (& Dave):

  I have excessive oil usage on my '67 Imperial
  engine. Not much of a surprise with 150K+, and
  sitting for a decade. 1 quart/150 miles at 70
  mph, & 1 quart/300 miles at 45ish avg. mph
  around town. I know the correct answer is to
  do a complete rebuild. Can't quite pop for
  that right now, as there are too many other
  priorities for my next $3000.

  Compression check months ago was OK, no blue
  smoke at cold start up (even if sitting for
  days), no blue smoke at hard acceleration, or
  after idle - just no blue smoke at all. Idles
  and drives quite well, gets about 11 mpg.
  Pulled the plugs yesterday after 3000 miles,
  and they were nicely tanned/greyed, clean
  everywhere except wet oil on the threads.

  Dave had mentioned earlier that big block
  Mopars have a tendency to need valve seals. If
  that is what's indicated by the above evidence,
  I could probably find the resources to pull the
  heads.

  Any expert (or otherwise) theories and thoughts would be most
  welcomed.

  Dan Richardson
  300L Family Heirloom



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