Hahaha, sorry guys, I made a typing
error.
Ofcourse I meant to say: these cars WEREN'T
mentioned to be driven by "idiots" LOL
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 1:32
AM
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 temperature gauge,
was: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
Hey...I resemble that comment!!!!
Tom
60 Crown
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 10:01
AM
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 temperature
gauge, was: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
Hi Sjak,
thanks for your answer, but there isn't such a
thing as an " idiot light" on a 1960 Imperial.
Problably because these cars were mentioned to
be driven by idiots :)
Best Regards,
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 2:49
PM
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 temperature
gauge, was: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
Possibly, but consider that not every gauge is in the same condition,
and vehicles may be in very different driving conditions, different
climate etc. A high resistance in the wire to the gage, a worn connector,
a slightly stuck gage needle, etc. will all influence the reading. So
two cars with the same coolant temperature can have different readings.
But if your material is in good condition, a reading somewhere in the
middle is perfectly acceptable on most cars.
If you're not sure, measure the resistance of the wires, check all
connectors, etc. Checking the sending unit itself can be difficult, since
on older cars, it is almost always stuck and impossible to remove it
without permanently damaging it (a replacement is inexpensive btw)
You may want to also check if the overheating warning light ("idiot
light") is working properly.
On 10/23/07, Rob
van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
That is right Sjak,
But maybe other 60 owners can give me an
idea what the normal reading on the gauge should be!
Thanks,
Robert
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007
12:17 PM
Subject: IML: 1960 temperature
gauge, was: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
In my experience from the speedshop, the original Mopar gauges
can often get very inaccurate over the years. This can have various
causes.
The only way to correctly check the temperature is to install a
calibrated gauge and sending unit. This will not affect the
originality of the car, since you can remove it after comparing the
readings from the calibrated unit with the one on your dash.
On 10/23/07, Rob van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > wrote:
Thanks for sharing this
Richard!,
Your father is absolutely right, you
need to adjust the cam adjusters (4 in the front and 2 in the rear)
frequently to get a good working braking system.
I have adjusted the way you father
described it, and I must say I have a firm pedal that travel only
halfway to the floor!
Maybe the other 60 owners, Paul, Tom,
Kenyon and Charles can jump in on this and tell us how much pedal
travel they have?
And since we are talking about 1960
Imps here, what is the correct reading for the temperature of our
cars?
Since the weather is almost freezing
cold here, my car doesn't reach normal operating temperature. It
just passed the Cold mark on the dial and thats about it. Since it
is a Californian car I thought the former owner might have installed
another termostat that opens earlier, so I checked it and I was
right!
The previous owner installed a 160
degrees thermostat!, I guess to prevent the car from overheating in
hot Californian summers.
I now have installed a 180 degrees
thermostat (OEM standard temperature) and the needle on the gauge
goes higher then ever before! It now stays exactly in the middle of
the dial.
Is this correct?
I have never seen the needle climbed
that high before, so I am a little worried allthough common sense
tells me that the middle of the dial sounds quite
good...
Just curious to know the readings on
other 1960 owners temperature gauges!
Thanks,
Robert
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, October 22,
2007 2:47 PM
Subject: IML: 1960 Imperial
brake bleeding
Hi Folks,
After spending countless hours working on the brakes on my
'60 Crown they are finally working properly. I think we bled
them entirely three times before getting everything repaired
properly. The shop that "restored" my chasis did not double
flare the brake lines correctly and had overtightened the flares
at the bronze blocks creating distortion and leaks. We ended
up replacing all of the lines again and the blocks as well, at the
front frame and on top of the axle. The IML web site was
helpful but did not really address the issue of pedal going to the
floor. See below. Another tip, we elevated our brake
bleeding bottle on a small step ladder, that really helped keeep
the air from returning to the cylinders during the bleeding
process. After all of this my father had this to say:
For Imperial Club under "Repair" , "Brakes", "Brake
Bleeding".
The 1960 Imperial and like years brake systems can be
perfectly bled and the pedal still go to the floor if the
brake shoes are not adjusted to require minimal
movement to brake the drum. The bottom line is
that with six cylinders to provide fluid too, the master
cylinder will be at the end of its stroke (to the floor) before
the wheel cylinders have enough fluid (pressure) to push the
shoes tight against the drums. Chrysler knew this,
as in the Maintenance Manual under "Pedal goes to Floor" you (a)
check fluid in master cylinder and (b) adjust for worn
linings . The obvious implication is that it does
not take much slack at the brake shoes to allow the pedal to go to
the floor. With the shoes properly adjusted tight against
the drum and just loosened enough to allow the wheel to turn
freely you still will not have a firm pedal until you almost reach
the floor. That's just the way it is. If you want to
see this then tighten all the shoes against the drums
and then see how much pedal you have. You cannot
see this by pumping the pedal as the strong shoe return springs
will push the fluid back out of the wheel cylinders faster
than you can stroke the master cylinder. Adjust the shoes
properly and frequently and you can get good
braking.
Richard Burgess
'60 Crown
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